Kletter-Highlights: Caprez bis Webb
Vom Boulder im Maltatal bis zur frei gekletterten Route am El Cap: Die heißesten News aus der Kletterwelt für November gibt's hier.
Im Herbst herrschen an vielen Orten der Welt optimale Bedingungen, um schwere Züge zu machen. Deshalb gibt's hier einen recht umfangreichen Überblick über die krassesten Aktionen der letzten Wochen.
Von Nina Caprez und Brad Gobright über Thomas Dauser und Lara Neumeier bis Jimmy Webb und Taylor McNeal: lauter unerhörte Leistungen. Größtes Kuriosum vielleicht: Nalle Hukkataival hat in Australien eine Erstbegehung vollendet – aber am Seil!
Nalle Hukkataival: Erstbegehung von 'The Great Affair' (33, 3SL), Taipan Wall, Australien
Nalle Hukkataival : Last day, best day in Australia!! This trip I couldn’t resist the call of the Taipan wall and found myself sucked into a few projects. One project in particular taking a bullet straight line up the middle of the amphitheater over some 3 pitches.
Previously known as the dyno project, majority of the line was originally bolted by Malcolm Matheson in early 90’s with the final third pitch having been opened by Dave Jones. I bolted the lower section this trip after finding a way to climb it free by a wild dyno to connect the missing dots.
Three pitches of glorious Taipan climbing - doesn’t get much better! The second pitch especially is pretty out of this world with it’s pristine sculpted Taipan rock. Taipan pioneer Malcolm really knew how to pick them!
The first pitch stands as the hardest, I’d say, followed by the second pitch with it’s exposed all-points-off dyno. And the final pitch way at the top packs a punch too. Grade 33 or so for it’s demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos.
After days of mostly hanging alone up on the wall and dialing in the sequences it came down to the wire. In classic style I pulled it off on my last day, lowered to the ground and checked-in for my flight on my phone!
The Great Affair (33)! A couple memorable first for me in this route, including my first multi-pitch first ascent. And what a climb for that!
Big thanks to Malcolm for the OG vision and equipping as well Dave, friends who endured the hanging belays, Kamil for the photos and Jai for rest!
Already missing Australia and Taipan wall! Swooooppp!!
Roland Hemetzberger klettert 'WoGü' (8c, 7SL) im Rätikon
Roland Hemetzberger: Unbelievable happy to achieve an ascent of the hardest multipitch in Europe.
As well so proud to share now my little story with the coolest community...
WoGü is considered the hardest multi-pitch in Europe! Located in Switzerland and freed by Adam Ondra, Wogü consists of 8c, 8a, 8c, 8b+, 8b+, 8a+, 7c+.
Nalle Hukkataival asked me approximately 1.5 years ago if I would like to joined WoGü with him- and I was on.
After the second day my middle finger pulley was through- big setback for 3 months. I committed all to Nalle and belayed and supported him - but he was unlucky because of bad weather.
During my break and the following winter months, my dream to climb WoGü grew immensely. This year I followed a straight plan and gave all my energy and effort to this route - and spent a lot of time on the 350m wall. The climbing is so demanding, brutally fingery and sustained.
Last Thursday it was so barely close… Three times I fell in the last 40m long 8b+, always on the last meters to the anchor- my mental batteries were so empty and I had insane cramps in my arms. Two days later, on the 30.09, I climbed in a unique flow — I sent every pitch on my first go and reached the summit at 19:00 with tears in my eyes.
I coiled up the ropes and realized I climbed one of the hardest multi-pitch climbs in the world - 15min later, it began to rain. Destiny?"
Matty Hong: Erstbegehung von 'Apple Juice Flood' (5.14c), Red River Gorge
Matty Hong: One of those RRG gems, Apple Juice Flood (5.14c) First Ascent.
Adam Ondra: Erstbegehung von 'One Slap' (9b) in Arco
Adam Ondra: After a while, I got to experience the moment when conditions are perfect, my mind is fully aware of it, that influence my state of mind, I climb free and confident, and I have the feeling of ease, flow and joy. First, I ticked off One Punch in Arco, a great first ascent from Stefano Ghisolfi. He gave it 9a+, but 9a+/b is probably closer to reality. It took me a few days over the last months. Then we added one more bolt and I made a first ascent of a harder start, calling it One Slap (9b). What a day! Mauro Mabboni bolted most of this crag in Arco.
Luca Rinaldi: Erstbegehung 'Blinded by the light' (Fb 8B)
Luca Rinaldi: I want to remember this day. I flashed Blinded by the light (8B) ... I didn't this things for so long time... I sat there and I did my first attempt from the start...My mind was free from thoughts and I was on top of the boulder...my first 8b flash...maybe think it is a little bit easier than 8b but now is not important...
Jim Reynolds & Brad Gobright stellen neuen Speedrekord an der 'Nose' auf
Mit einer Zeit von 2:19:44 brechen die US-Amerikaner den bislang von Alex Honnold und Hans Florine gehaltenen Speedrekord an der Nose am El Capitan.
Brad Gobright: My Yosemite season is officially over. The last three months have perhaps been the best and most successful I’ve had in climbing. Who thought 6 months off would allow that! I headed to the Sierra high country in mid August where I climbed some famous face routes like Peace and The Bachar-Yerian. I also made an onsight linkup of Solar Flare and Sunspot Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk. When I wasn’t climbing with anyone I was soloing around the high country doing whatever I wanted. Once the weather started getting cold I headed down to The Valley where @chimney_jim and I immediately began work on The Nose Speed Record. Going for this objective has been the most enjoyable but also the most stressful thing I’ve done in climbing. After eleven ascents in a six week period we achieved the record time in 2:19:44 making it the most rewarding and hardest thing I’ve done in climbing. In between Nose missions I managed to send big wall test pieces like Final Frontier and Father Time. I also soloed the Rostrum five times throughout the season when I felt like climbing by myself. Aside from climbing, I made a bunch of new friends and some of my older friends became best friends. I apologize for spraying you guys down so hard but I’m psyched on the last few months and I want to tell it. With the Valley season over I plan to go to some of the Premiers of Reel Rock 12 where Safety Third by @cedarwright and @tay.keating will be one of the featured films. After that it’s off to Vegas where I want to settle down for a while. This is a shot by @_drew_smith_ of me climbing Lurking Fear on El Cap a year and a half ago. Those cracks are so long and splitter!
Jonathan Siegrist klettert ‘20 Anos Despues’ (9a)
Jonathan Siegrist : Last week I went full battle mode on 20 Anos Despues (9a) for the win. It was my fourth try of that day and I was pooped as hell. One of those sends when you have absolutely zero expectations.. like really zero. This route has several enormous moves and snappy crux sections: it definitely felt hard to me. I nearly punted off the 5.11 finish, screaming with exhaustion. Nail biter until the bitter end! Honestly my favorite kind of send. Yeah I’m stoked!
Jonathan Siegrist klettert 'La Reina Mora' (8c+/9a)
Jonathan Siegrist: So incredibly fired up that I never again have to climb the devious crack crux pictured below me here. I did the awesome route, La Reina Mora (9a) yesterday with a huge smile. Such a pleasure to get pumped silly on this resistance test piece! One of the most fun things about sending is planning your next objective ... photo from my send on La Rambla a few years back. These two proud routes share a common, hateful start.
Patxi Usobiaga klettert 'Pachamama' (9a+/b) in Spanien
Joe Kinder: Major congrats to one of my biggest inspirations, Patxi Usobiaga sent Pachamama (9a+/b) at Oliana. Lots of work went into this for him and he deserves every moment of pride in his accomplishment. Great job homie. So proud of you.
Lara Neumeier punktet 'Steckbrett' (8c), Kraftwerk, Füssen
Obed Hardmaier klettert 'Jungfraumarathon' (9a) in Gimmelwald
Fotograf Chris Frick: Obed Hardmeier sends Jungfrau Marathon (9a), an amazing piece of rock at Gimmelwald, my favourite crag in Switzerland. Congrats, Obed, that was amazing to watch! For the record, guess this was the 6th ascent.
Loic Zehani klettert 'Le cadre nouvelle version' (9a) in Céüse
Fotograf Chris Frick: Big shout out to Loic Zehani, a supernice, young and very talented climber from Salon de Provence/France... last weekend he finally did his big proj Le cadre nouvelle version (9a). Congrats! I’m very happy for him. We met in Cèüse in July where I had the superb opportunity to take this shot with my phone.
Sharma wiederholt Pringles 'Everything is Karate' (5.14c/d)
Chris Sharma: Everything is Karate (5.14 C/D or 8c+/9a) is a line on a beautiful granitic face in the well known bouldering spot of Bishop, California. It was bolted by Patrick O’Donnell and Ethan Pringle made the first ascent last April. This week, Chris Sharma has taken advantage of a passage in his childhood region to discover this route. Despite hot conditions and an epic fall, he signed the second ascent of this line. The two climbers do not miss of superlative to judge this line and we let you judge by yourself with this video of the first climb just released.
Thomas Dauser klettert 'Elder Statesman' (11) im Frankenjura
Mit The Elder Statesman konnte Thomas Dauser seine erste 11 klettern.
Taylor McNeill klettert 'The Big Island' (Fb 8C) in Fontainebleau
Robert Leistner klettert Deliverance (Fb 8A+), Fontainebleau
Daniel Woods klettert 'Beyond the Wall of Sleep' (8B/+), Colorado
Daniel Woods: Sent Dave Graham's new addition in shadow canyon Beyond the Wall of Sleep (8B/+). Def one of the best blocs in CO. Powerful climbing on bullet slopers leads to a techy bulge encounter at 15 feet, followed by a nice jaunt to the top of this 30 foot bloc. Feels good to be climbing hard again after being sidelined. Now off to the New River Gorge to sample some grade A sandstone.
Nalle Hukkataival in Squamish
Paul Robinson klettert 'Lady in Black' (Fb 8B/+) im Maltatal
Dave Graham bouldert 'Red Bottom Sky' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands
Dave Graham: As the snow continues to accumulate upon Hypnotized Minds up in RMNP... I’m going to take this opportunity to reminisce of drier warmer times and share the first ascent footage of the hardest problem I managed to climb down in South Africa this summer. Red Bottom Sky (8C) is a rig I discovered at the Riverside sector tucked back into a small valley. A strange powerful crack sequence leads up to a bizarre kneebar-jump to a shit hold, and is followed by a technical compression sequence revolving around a terrible heel hook which you ride till the very end. Out of the 13 8b+ boulders I’ve climbed this year this thing was the most challenging to actually link, and took more time and effort than any of the others. Hopefully its actually a step above the rest in terms of difficulty and holds the grade. Let's see what people say next season, super amped to get back.
Christof Rauch klettert Sound of Silence (Fb 8B+) und Zunami (Fb 8C)
Christof Rauch : Yesterday I had my best climbing day ever! At first I went to Loferer Alm together with @nogrugger to try my unfinished business Sound of Silence (8B+). The first highlight of the day was to meet Klem Loskot and try hard together with him. After a few failed attemps I could eventually sent my project! Still had some power left and decided to drive to the legendary Zunami (8C) and give it a go. The upper moves felt really solid and so I gave it some tries from the start. As I stuck the first move I felt like climbing in a dream, I hit every hold perfectly. When i kept on the wall at the last hard dyno it was a surreal moment for me! Couldn't be more happy! Big thanks to @nogrugger for the support!
Anna Stöhr klettert 'Penrose Step' (V14) in Leavenworth, Washington, USA
Anna Stöhr: JAWOLLOOOOOO!! after (almost) running out of time, skin, energy and good weather, yesterday i managed to climb #leavenworth’s testpiece penrose step (v14) !!!!
thanks a lot to Kilian Fischhuber for the support and the pics as well as @jkevinnewell and @csallen08 for the pads - couldn’t have done it without them.
Jimmy Webb klettert 'Third Eye Awakening' (V14)
Jimmy Webb: Feels good to be back in Boone! Went out on the first day to check out a stellar new V14 called Third Eye Awakening that my good homie Taylor McNeal established. What an insane roof with a perfect balance of power and technique. Took a long session but once the subtleties were sussed I found myself on top for the 2nd ascent of one of Boone's best new boulders. Stoked to see the quality still being produced in a place that I love so much.
Paul Robinson wiederholt 'Bügeleisen' (Fb 8B+), Maltatal
Paul Robinson: It is kind of a surreal moment when you climb a boulder you have dreamt of year after year for over a decade and a half. I started climbing 20 years ago and Klem Loskot made the first ascent of possibly the greatest 8B+ on the planet 16 years ago. I can remember seeing the video of this climb as a teenager and just being amazed that something this perfect existed. I watched the clip on udini hundreds of times. Im not even sure how many times I made my dad and friends watch the video with me. I dreamed about what it would be like to go to Austria let alone get to try this boulder that at the time was so much harder than I could have ever fathomed climbing. Flash forward to a wet October in 2015 when I first saw the line. It was better than I had even imagined it would be. It was wet but I pulled off the ground twice just because I could not leave Austria without having at least tried Bügeleisen. I got nowhere on the wet holds but vowed to return one day to climb this historic 5 star line. Flash forward again to October 28, 2017, I was again standing below Bügeleisen, putting my shoes on and preparing the pads. This time the weather was perfect and everything felt right. On my first day trying the line this year, I found myself at the top, amazed and just blown away by the circumstances that have led me to where I am today, in Austria and not just below the climb but standing on top of Bügeleisen! Cheers to Klem for putting up this boulder; cheers to everyone who got me to the point where climbing this boulder actually became a reality. I feel so lucky.
Jan Hojer klettert 'Kaiken' (Fb 8A+/B) in Fontainebleau
Jan Hojer: After a long comp season I finally touched some rock again. I almost forgot how much I love some quiet days in the forest of Font! Here I do the rarely repeated Kaïken (8A+/8B) in Gros Sablons. I also completed another great and slightly harder problem this trip! Video will be out soon!
Christoph Rauch klettert 'Dark Matter' (Fb 8B+\C) & 'Entlinge'
Christoph Rauch: Back at home from a very successful 2 day trip to Murgtal. The highlight was definitely my ascent of the great power testpiece Entlinge (8B+) but I also completed some other great lines like Cosmic Chaos (8B), Charons Obolus (8B), Taurus (8A) and Sojus (7C+).
Und Ende Oktober vermeldete Christof:
Seems like I have a run! The day after I did Dark Matter (8B+/C), I went to Val Calanca for the first time. My maingoal was to check out @alexey_rubtsov 's new line Alpha Boulder (8B+). The boulder suits my style really well and I was lucky enough to complete it in just one session! I also managed to flash Cold Smoke (8A) and climb another 8A.
Thomas Lindinger: The last five days in Brione passed by really fast. No wonder when it‘s dark at six o‘clock and you‘re not only trying to repeat boulders but also seeking for some new stuff which is very time consuming. But it‘s worth especially when you find a boulder like the one on the photo! Maybe someone else already climbed it but as I haven‘t heard anything of it or seen any picture it might be a first ascent!? If anybody knows about it let me know! Until then I‘ll claim it my FA and call it Camourange.
Max Räuber bouldert 'Santoku' (Fb 8B)
Max Räuber: Spend a week in the beautiful Ticino together with my buddy @mattwoidy
Enjoying the perfect weather :-) and the nice #swissquality boulders. One of those boulders for me was Santoku a stunning compression climb on which I fucked up on the end already in my second session. So it was really nice to climb this one on our last day during a night session.
Molly Thompson-Smith bouldert 'Tsunami' (Fb 8A)
Molly Thompson-Smith: Psyched to have ticked off a 2017 goal with a send of Tsunami today - my first 8A on British rock!