Highlights: Shawn Raboutou, Basti Halenke, Melissa Le Neve

David Lama Lunag Ri Erstbesteigung
Foto: Archiv Lama

Von David Lama über Shawn Raboutou und Sebastian Halenke bis David Firnenburg und Melissa Le Neve, hier gibt es die neuesten Kletternews.

Mit dem Sitzstart zu Off the Wagon gelang Shawn Raboutou der härteste Boulder der Schweiz. Schon die originale Linie ist mit Fb 8C ein begehrtes Testpiece, das viele Aspiranten abgeworfen hat. Shawn stammt aus der Kletterer-Familie Erbesfield-Raboutou: Sein Vater Didier war französischer Topkletterer, er gewann 1089 den Arco Rockmaster. Seine Mutter Robyn Erbesfield wurde 1995 Weltmeisterin im Lead, Shawns Schwester Brooke gewann 2018 die Jugendweltmeisterschaft im Lead. Shawn bewegt sich eher am Fels als am Plastik und hat sich nahezu unbemerkt an den härtesten Linien profiliert.

Neben Off the Wagon sit gelang ihm noch die Erstbegehung von Buddah (8c+/9a) im Valais (CH) (siehe weiter unten). In Fionnay gelang Shawn noch die erste Wiederholung des David-Graham-Boulders Foundation’s Edge (Fb 8C). Nach Shawns Wiederholung von Creature of the Black Lagoon im Rocky Mountain National Park im September ist Off the Wagon sit sein zweiter Boulder im Grad 8C+, oder dritter, wenn man The Finnish Line (Fb 8C/C+) in Rocklands dazu zählt.

Erstbegehung: Shawn Raboutou (US) klettert Sitzstart zu 'Off the Wagon' im Val Bavona (CH)

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Off the Wagon (8c+/v16) . . full video soon (music was playing in background) . I want to mention that there are access issues. You can not try this game from April through October due to the land owner wanting to conserve the grass for his animals. Please be respectful and discreet because it's private land. ️ . @lasportivana @organicclimbing @frictionlabs . 11/27/18 (First Ascent from the low-start)

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Shawn Raboutou (@shawnraboutou) am

Erstbegehung: Shawn Raboutou eröffnet 'Buddah' (8c+ / 9a)

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. . First Ascent of Buddah (I don't have the experience to grade it but probably 8c+ or 9a) . Also shout-out to Cyrille Albasini for bolting this thang and another shout-out to the guys who built the cabin we stayed in up there. . . . @lasportivana @frictionlabs @organicclimbing . 11/15/18

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Shawn Raboutou (@shawnraboutou) am

David Firnenburg (DE) klettert 'Modified' (9a+) im Frankenjura (DE)

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Autumn vibes in Frankenjura ‍ • David sent “Modified” (9a+) yesterday. It’s the slightly harder start into “Classified” (9a/a+) he’d done two weeks ago. • There is some awesome video footage coming soon Stay tuned! • It’s nice to be outdoors and to take a deep breath of fresh autumn air before we head to Catalonia on Friday for two weeks Hoping for good and warmer weather to tackle down some more hard routes there • @neprosport of David in “Dr. Best” (8c) at Holzgauer Wand/FJ • #makemovesnowar @neprosport @haglofs @scarpa_de @scarpaspa @frictionlabs @sporthilfe @escaladrome_hannover #davsektionrheinlandköln • #climbingpicturesofinstagram #weareclassified #firnenburgbrothers #klettern #fränkischeschweiz #frankenjura #keepclimbing #chalkmatters #noplacetoofar #beattheelements #climb #rockclimb #autumnvibes

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am

Felipe Camargo (BR) klettert 'Gancho perfecto' (9a+) in Margalef (ES)

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Gancho Perfecto 9a+ So stoked to finally climb this route!! After 1 month with the top of the route totally wet i had my chance!! What a battle with the weather it was...i tried to keep myself motivated , trained hard in the gym and climbed many days in the dry parts of the route!! So thankful that i got the window to finish it off ️! Another masterpiece by @chris_sharma thanks dude! Thanks @anghelobernalquintero for the hours and hours belaying me !! As for the grade...i feel like this one deserves the 9a+! Its just harder than all the 9as ive tried, harder than the other ones in the same wall and has a brutal finishing move...a lot of people seem to agree with that as well ‍️ but in the end it doesnt really matter...it will always be that one route i saw @adam.ondra climb in “Progression” ! Photo: @anvacreative

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Felipe Camargo (@felipe.camargo) am

Flash: Sebastian Halenke (DE) klettert 'Le Labyrinthe de Pan' (8c+) im Kronthal (FR)

Foto: Martin Schepers
Nicht im Kronthal, aber der gleiche Sandstein: Sebastian Halenke im KLETTERN-Kalender 2019.

Sebastian Halenke gelangen im Kronthal, Elsaß, zwei herausragende Begehungen. Erst stieg er in L'âme du Phéni (8c) ein. Zwar kannte er den Einstieg der Route von einem vergangenen Besuch, den Rest der Route konnte aber direkt klettern. Laut Zeugen sah es aus "wie ein Spaziergang". Der Franzose Thomas Wendling hatte Basti die Züge angesagt. Danach gelang ihm noch das zweite Testpiece der großen Grotte, Le labyrinthe de pan (8c+) im Flash.

Erstbegehung: Lonnie Kauk (US) klettert 'The Magic Line' (5.14c) im Yosemite-Valley (US)

Denkwürdige Familie, die zweite: Lonnie Kauk gelang die erste freie Begehung von The Magic Line, bei der er alle Klemmgeräte während des Kletterns legte. Sein Vater, Yosemite-Legende Ron Kauk, hatte die Linie zwar 1996 frei klettern können, aber mit dem Gear bereits in situ.

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Magic Line 14c The final chapter November 14th 2018 first ascent Yosemite Valley Ca. Thank you to my family for the endless support. Many thanks to Conner Lund for the magic belay and everybody who helped with this vision. Thanks to @maximropes & @lasportivana for keeping us styling ️ good vibes to everyone.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Lonnie Kosuko Kauk (@lonniekkauk) am

Erstbegehung: Jakob Schubert (AT) klettert 'Synergieeffekt' (8c+) im Ötztal (AT)

Geboltet hatte Heiko Wilhelm die Linie, Jakob Schubert konnte sie nun befreien. Damit erhält das Ötztal eine weitere High-End-Route. Etwas später gelang ihm noch die Wiederholung des Boulders Sierra Madre, Bild dazu weiter unten.

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Last weekend my friend @wilhelmheiko showed me this amazing project in Ötztal that he has been talking about for a while already. Together with @michael.piccolruaz I was able to find pretty good beta and even get the first ascent on my 3rd go! We gave it the name ‚Synergieeffekt‘ and I think it‘s 8c+, a fantastic line with perfect compression climbing and amazing holds! Thanks a lot for showing me this 5 star route and the pictures as well @wilhelmheiko • #rockclimbing #firstascent #ötztal #amazingtime #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jakob Schubert (@jakob.schubert) am

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This fall has been great and I‘m having a blast climbing outside in Tyrol lately! A few days ago I was able to get the 3rd ascent of ‚Sierra Madre‘ the hardest boulder in Zillertal 8b+/8c] It‘s not only hard but one of the best boulders I have ever done and definitely my favorite hard bloc in Tyrol. Props to @floschmalzl for establishing this beauty For now I‘m taking a break from the Zillertal granite because I leave to Catalunya tomorrow! Super psyched to try some hard routes there • Photo: @michael.piccolruaz • #rockclimbing #bouldering #havingablast #climbing_is_my_passion #ontheroadagain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jakob Schubert (@jakob.schubert) am

Tom Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Hips don't lie' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)

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Sometimes the unexpected happens: Woke up today with the plan to drive to the Frankenjura and give ‚Hips don‘t lie sit‘ fb 8B+] some tries. I didn’t feel totally rested and therefore I got doubts whether it was worth to go. I decided to do so though! Nevertheless the whole drive my mind went crazy not knowing if I had a real chance today. The warm up was tough, too. I tried the upper crux with some other beta I saw in a video. But it didn‘t work for me. Checked my beta again and it felt better from try to try. Then did the first tries from the ground. Fell two times on the lower moves. Gave it a third try. AND... . . . ...fell at the last hard move again But it was soooo close that my mind got a bit more optimistic. Rested for 20 minutes. Gave it the next burn. AND... . . . ...YES I made it the top Stay tuned for the video! @scarpa_de @prana @petzl_official

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Lindinger (@_tom._.tom_) am

... und 'Pushed aside' (fb 8B) im Saalachtal (AT)

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Climbed this nice boulder called ‚Pushed Aside‘ fb 8B] yesterday. Bernhard Schwaiger made the first ascent in 2005 and gave it the name due to a very strange position where you feel like you get pushed aside. For me the first move which is very coordinative + powerful and the sequence in the middle which he mentioned were the crux. I can highly recommend it to everyone who comes around. When you got interested then check out my video of it. The link is in my BIO. Thx for watching and subscribing @prana @petzl_official @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Lindinger (@_tom._.tom_) am

Erstbegehung: Theo Chappex (CH) klettert 'Méithra' (Fb 8C) im Valais (CH)

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FA : Méithra 8C Earlier this month, I could finish this first-class rig few days before everything was covered with snow. Thanks @jo_jomag for the good wibes that day! (and @marie.dorsaz for the numerous spotting sessions ) Concerning the grade, well… it felt hard... but at the end, it’s always the same game: let’s wait for some repetitors opinions. . . @eb_climbing . #bouldering #climbing #eb_climbing #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #valais #arolla #rockclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Théo Chappex (@theochappex) am

Melissa Le Neve (FR) klettert 'Golden Ticket' (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)

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Got addicted my trip to the US end with clipping the chain of #goldenticket 8c+ , one of those routes on my #todolist !! I think I haven’t been happier yet to climb a line ! Back in 2012, i was very impressed by the line and even more when I saw @adam.ondra onsighting it (which was one of my most inspiring experience in climbing). When I first tried it this year, I was even more impressed by the waterfall of massives moves the route has. I didn’t have to jump like @michaelakiersch in the middle section (which is super impressive!) but I was on my max max max span..! after 3weeks of project processing going through all mental steps and weather struggle, I climbed this gem and feel just on a cloud ! Thanks a lot @pugklime for bolting this beauty ! Thanks a ton to all my old and new friends for an amazing time spent in the #rrg ! And Thanks a bunch @andywickstrom for the artist touch of my #batgirl ! ️️ video coming !! @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official @arkose.climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Melissa Le Nevé (@melissaleneve) am

Erstbegehung: Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Terra Piatta' (8c) in Arco

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Thanks for all the suggestions! The name of the route will be "Terra Piatta" (Flat Earth), because of the flat shape of the wall! The grade is 8c (a bit harder than Riflessi), but one of the best in the valley. Come and try it! @gi_jj @kirsch_climbing @gardatrentino • • • @thenorthface @lasportivagram @camp1889 @vertical.life.climbing @epictv @hrtholds @frictionlabs #neverstopexploring #fiammeoro • #climb #climbing #steghisati #rockclimbing #klettern #escalade #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Ghisolfi (@steghiso) am

Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Botchla’ (V14) in Tahoe (US)

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A few weeks ago I found this amazing wall in Tahoe hosting two beautiful seam projects. The right line of the two though I immediately became obsessed about. The style of climbing is technical, intricate, and relentless. It was a type of boulder that gave me trouble and even after 3 days of efforts I had barely done all the moves. Day 4 rolled around and @fabi_buhl and I had finally settled into a method that gave me a glimmer of hope. Then on Day 5, with the primo conditions, I was able snatch up the FA The process on this one was so rad. Cheers @fabi_buhl for the good sessions and @kevintakashismith for the spots and the screen grab . Just another banger for Tahoe!! ‘Botchla’ V14. #southlaketahoe #bouldering #projects @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jimmy Webb (@jwebxl) am

Toshi Takeushi (JP) klettert 'The Swarm' (V14) in den Buttermilks (CA, US)

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The Swarm V13/14 Lifetime tick done in 5 or 6try from the start on my first day of this trip. I first touched this problem 9years ago.I couldn’t stuck the crux 2nd move then.And came back here 4years ago.But I fell from after stuck the crux twice. Today,I felt this one like another problem. @ryan_keith_white ‘s cool footage will come out from @soill So psyched to move on to the next one! by @maitake00 Bishopに着いて、初日、スタートから5か6トライ目で長年の宿敵The Swarm V13/14を登りました。9年前にはじめてトライした時も付き合ってすぐのマイと一緒に来て、4年前に悔しい敗退した時もマイと一緒に来た。今日、ついに登るところを見てもらえて自己満足 いつもありがとねー! SoiLLクルーがめちゃかっこいい動画撮ってたのでそのうち見られると思います。 @soill @takehold @takeholdlv @heavy.japan @up.athlete @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Toshi Takeuchi (@toshi__takeuchi) am

Der starke Japaner Toshi Takeushi konnte in Bishop noch weitere Toplinien klettern. Hier kommt ein Überblick in Video-Form.

Erstbegehung: Sachi Amma (JP) klettert 'Sho' ('Rise') (5.15a)

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I have done my project!!! Oh it was definitely one of the memorable sending story in my life. 白壁フェースのプロジェクトを完登しました!感動的で、信じ難いクライミングでした。 If I count from middle of October, more than 10 times I fell at the crux move. I was really getting tired, scared to try the route. 10月中頃から数えれば、もう10回以上同じ核心で落ち続けていて、心身共に疲労し、恐れも育ち、厳しい状況でした。 But so many things helped that attempt. Perfect cold, sunny and windy conditions. Amazing words from my friend to change my thoughts. Fiery passion of filmmaker. Many people watch over my challenge. 今でも全てを出し尽くしたあの瞬間を繋ぎ止めたものは、僕だけの力ではないのだと、感じます。完璧なコンディションとトライのタイミング、秀さんの素晴らしい言葉、アンドレアの撮影に対する情熱、多くの友達の暖かに見守ってくれている気持ち。 I was very on the limit. Without all the support, I am pretty sure I could not stuck the move! I am filled with gratitude. 本当に限界のトライでした。何か一つでも欠けていたらあの核心は止まっていなかった。そしてそれは僕だけの力ではなかった。本当に、素晴らしい体験をさせてもらった。ありがとう Screengrab from video by @ciaoandreacossu @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official @shirasu0322 @satopoppo1124 @teru.teru.bo_zu @kiku_ring @haircut_poguemahone #futago #whitewallproject #二子山西岳 #白壁フェースプロジェクト

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sachi Amma (@sachiamma) am

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert 'The Anthem' (Fb 8A+), Klausenalm, Zillertal (AT)

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after falling from the lip last week i finally did this gem today! ‚The Anthem‘ 8A+ thanks for the support from all of u guys @wimmerdaniel @ironmanmich @_baumeister_ @sosolid_official @belmezface @frictionlabs @scarpa_at . . . . . . . #iloooveit #climbing_is_my_passion #boulderingbabes #bouldering_came_first #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #noplacetoofar #scarpaclimb #chalkupless #leggings #austria #österreich#tirol #tyrol #bouldering #bouldern #climbing #klettern #climb #nature #video #girl

Ein Beitrag geteilt von karo sinnhuber (@karo_sinnhuber) am

Erstbesteigung: David Lama (AT) besteigt Lunag Ri (6907m) im Himalaya

Am Lunag Ri, einem bislang unbestiegenen Gipfel an der Grenze von Nepal und Tibet im Himalaya, musste David schon zwei Mal umkehren. Nun gelang ihm die Erstbesteigung des anspruchsvollen Bergs. Hier geht es zum Video über die vergangenen Versuche von David Lama und Conrad Anker, bei denen nicht nur der Berg die zwei Alpinisten mit Hindernissen konfrontierte.

Griff-Ausbruch am 'Mandala' von Chris Sharma in Bishop (US)

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Here’s @tiimmaaayyy workin the Mandala v12 and coming real close to sending it in Bishop this past weekend. Apparently the jug before the lip on it broke within the last day! Not sure if it still goes, but it’s too bad this buttermilk classic keep crumbling!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brennan Robinson (@brennannnnn) am