Highlights: Raboutou, Kampf, Räuber, Hukkataival

Matty Hong klettert in Rifle Colorado
Foto: Matty Hong Instagram

Die schwersten Routen und Boulder der Welt, die krassesten Züge und neuesten Erstbegehungen: in diesen Highlights.

Sarah Kampf (ehemals Seeger) klettert 'Battle Cat' (8c/+)

When it's perfect, it's perfect Ideal conditions, good company, high motivation and low pressure today - enough reasons to clip the anchor of "Battle Cat" (8c/+), probably the most beautiful route I have climbed so far. Couldn't be more psyched! by @dorokara. Thanks Madame for always being motivating and inspiring! @marmot_mountain_europe @blackdiamond @scarpa_de @sterlingrope #frankenjura #fraenkischeschweiz #climbing_is_my_passion #iloveclimbing #girlswhoclimb #climblikeamom #climblikeagirl #climbing #rockclimbing #klettern #climbingisbliss #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #instaclimb #breathingfreshair #liveclimbrepeat #whatgivesyoulife #climbinglife

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sarah Kampf (Seeger) (@sarah.kampf) am

Erstbegehung: Alexander Megos (DE) klettert 9a in Céüse (FR)

Alexander Megos hat in Céüse eine von Quentin Chastagnier eingerichtete Route im Sektor Demi-Lune klettern können. Die Linie der Erstbegehung verläuft links von Lapinerie (7b). Alexander konnte die Route nach zwei Boulder-Durchgängen innerhalb eines Tages durchsteigen und schlägt als Bewertung ungefähr 9a vor. Die Wand scheint ihm zu gefallen: Hier hatte er schon Et dieu créa la flemme (9a) erstbegehen können. Alex beschreibt die Routen als einander ähnlich: "Die Route ist anfangs sehr leicht. In der Schlüsselstelle kommt dann ein harter Boulder an kleinen Griffen. Die Felsqualität ist gut und die Züge sind cool. Ich denke aber, dass die Route nicht viele Wiederholungen bekommen wird. (...) Entweder man kann die Züge klettern – oder eben nicht. Man kann sie nicht wirklich ausbouldern und jedes Mal etwas weiter klettern wie bei einer Ausdauer-Route. Ich bin gespannt, was andere über die Route und ihre Bewerung denken."

Quelle: Fanatic Climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) am

Max Räuber (DE) klettert 'Tonfa' (Fb 8B), Frankenjura

Shawn Raboutou (US) klettert 'The Finnish Line' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

The Finish Line (v15/8c) . Good times in with the boys and Brooke . . @organicclimbing @lasportivana . . @jewboy_666

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Shawn Raboutou (@shawnraboutou) am

Keenan Takahashi flasht 'Don't get to greedy' (V13) in RMNP (USA, Co)

Back on track // Ramping A couple of weeks ago I heard a loud crunch while doing a dropknee and a visit confirmed I’d sprained my MCL. Since then I’ve been hiking a bunch and climbing with a knee brace to help it heal quickly. The other day, I went to the Green 45 as I’d only been once, on my first day to the park last year. After a thorough humbling on Jade, I meticulously studied DGTG and tried to calm myself. I knew the style suited me to a T, but was a bit nervous with my knee. As I climbed up to the crux, everything fell into place. I took some extra time placing the toe, and surged to the wrap. I’d looked over the end, but couldn’t tell whether to go left or right to a good edge up high. A few stressful moments later, I barely latched it, going slightly too far left. Aside from those few seconds of doubt, I don’t know if I’ve ever felt so in tune on a flash effort, surreal and focused at the same time. Absolutely elated with this one and stoked for more!!! @lasportivana @hippytree @frictionlabs @cruxcc @organicclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Keenan Takahashi (@katakaha) am

Erstbegehung: Matty Hong & Jon Cardwell klettern 'Jon Foolery' (5.14c) in Rifle, CO (US)

Rifle season is in full swing and it’s still got that spark it had 15yrs ago. @jon_cardwell spotted a new line in the Bauhaus, totally independent right next to the classic @tommycaldwell route ‘Tom Foolery’ (1996). We put in the bolts and unlocked the sequences, and both sent last weekend! I did it first so I get to name it, ‘Jon Foolery’ (5.14c)

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matty Hong (@honngy) am

Manon Hily (FR) klettert 'Era Vella' (9a) in Margalef (ES)

Margalef ... I feel very lucky to be here and climb some amazing 45m’s routes. After sending « Era Vella » last week . I climbed « Coma Sant Pere » yesterday ! Thanks @t.cartier ️ @fiveten_official @blackdiamond @arkose.climbing @greenspits #liveclimbrepeat #brandofthebrave #arkose #greenspitsmember #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #rockclimbing #climbinglife

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Hily Manon (@manonhily) am

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert 'Out of Balance' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands (ZA)

finishing some old business ‚Out of Balance‘ 8A #highball resting today and then checking out some 8B projects tmro ️ pic by @da_dave_ @sosolid_official @belmezface @frictionlabs @scarpa_at . . . . . . . #bouldern #bouldering #climbing_is_my_passion #bouldering_came_first #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #scarpaclimb #scarpaspa #noplacetoofar #africa #rocklands #southafrica #travel #climbing #klettern #iloooveit #climax_magazine @climax_magazine #sosolid #leggings

Ein Beitrag geteilt von karo sinnhuber (@karo_sinnhuber) am

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Stranger Things ' (Fb 8B) nach Griffausbruch in Albarracin (ES)

Today I did the FA (after a key hold broke) of Stranger Things (originally opened by @jorgetost). Really nice 'fridge style' compression climbing. Hard to give a grade, but I would say 8B. The style really suits me, and I use my weird heelhooks . But it could also be easier with better beta (and less sun on the slopers ) My first FA and I am really happy with it Big thanx to @miquelet_navarro for telling me about this project and @sophiarofekamp for the spotting

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (@michielnieuw) am

... und 'Ill Trill' (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)

Magic Wood ill trill (8B+) on day one, damn that feels good! Super motivated to try Practice next

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (@michielnieuw) am

Erstbegehung: Martin Stranik (CZ) bouldert 'Tekute Stesti' (FB 8C) in Moravsky Kras (CZ)

Yesterday I did one of my hardest boulder problems, First Ascent of Tekuté Štěstí in Moravia Carst in 8C range! Big powerful moves in huge roof! Raw video on YouTube today. @kac_stranik #scarpa.cz #scarpaspa #singingrock #olymppraha

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Stráník (@martin.stranik) am

Adam Ondra wiederholt 'Tekute Stesti' (FB 8C) in Moravsky Kras (CZ)

2nd ascent of Tekute Stesti 8C after @martin.stranik. One of the best in Moravsky kras! @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @montura_official @mytendon @gardatrentino

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am

Erstbegehung: Domen Skofic (SI) klettert 'Dead Man fighting' (8c+) on Warmbad (SI)

Yesterday I had another great day in Warmbad with my friends. I was able to finish of the line of “Dead man walking” all the way to the top of the wall. “Dead man fighting” is my second FA and I’m giving it a hard 8c+. . by Dejan Schmautz . @redbull #givesyouwings @redbullsi @fiveten_official #brandofthebrave @pazi.to #zavarovalnicatriglav @slovenian_army

Ein Beitrag geteilt von DOMEN ŠKOFIC (@domen_skofic) am

Erstbegehung: Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert ‘Aeolis Mons’ (5.14a, 230m) in Mt. Charleston, NV (US)

I’ve been obsessed with this route for the last several weeks. Many backbreaking days of bolting, cleaning and sussing went into my successful free attempt this past Monday. It was an incredible and very memorable experience from beginning to end. Huge thanks to Chad for helping me haul and get stoked, @shainasavoy for the awesome support during the send and @agrphoto for the amazing shots! • ‘Aeolis Mons’ 14a, 740ft, grade III/IV • more details and photos on the @arcteryx #birdblog soon! @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing @maximropes @climbonproducts @theprobar @zealoptics

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonathan Siegrist (@jonathansiegrist) am

Erstbegehung: Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Mato Oput' (Fb 8A) in den Rocklands (ZA)

Does it really get any better than this!? ️ first ascents in my favorite place in the world with my favorite person ! Thanks for the awesome shot @punkaca from my first ascent of, “Mato Oput,” ~V11/8A. Don’t fall off the top of this one... the consequences would be dire. . . . . . . . . . . . #bouldering #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #rockclimbing #climbing #climbingcollective #unchartedlines #climbing_is_my_passion #southafrica

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am

Alfons Dornauer (AT) klettert 'Kein Licht kein Schatten' (8c+) im Ötztal (AT)

Yesss!!! Yesterday I was able to make the first repeat of @jakob.schubert 's route 'Kein Licht Kein Schatten' in the ötztal valley. With a bit of an easier solution for the crux part it's still a solid 8c+ I think. Whatever, definitely one of the best short and powerful routes I ever tried! Good day together with the beta master @jimpopeonarope and @stewwatson !! : @wilhelmheiko #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #ötztal #psyched #olmvölle

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alfons Dornauer (@alfons_dornauer) am

Emily Harrington (US) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

That Kriss Kross heart breaker move on 'Mind Control'. I predicted I would fall there endlessly until my trip ended, almost relenting to failure before I had even tried to succeed. That's often how I operate though and surprisingly with little expectation I found myself cruising though and above it, skipping all the following quickdraws to boost motivation and incentive to not fall off so close to the anchor // sometimes having no expectations is the best kind of confidence // @marcosncosta // @thenorthface_climb // @petzl_official

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Emily Harrington (@emilyaharrington) am

Matthias Woidneck (DE) klettert 'The Windmill' in Fontainebleau (FR)

️'The windmill' by @sebastian_gebhardt

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matthias Woidneck (@mattwoidy) am

David Fitzgerald (IE) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood (CH)

New Baseline (8B+/v14). Satisfaction in the woods with my patient boi @mytherapyphysio . @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Fitzgerald (@dv_fitzgerald) am

Brooke Raboutou (US) klettert 'Royksopp' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands (ZA)

About halfway through my trip in the Rocklands with the boys and Shawn. . Royksopp 8a/v11 . . @adidasterrex @organicclimbing @lasportivana @frictionlabs @petzl_official @climbonproducts . . @bigtwig23

Ein Beitrag geteilt von ⒷⓇⓄⓄⓀⒺ ⓇⒶⒷⓄⓊⓉⓄⓊ (@brookeclimbs) am

Thilo Schröter (NO) klettert 'King Air' (Fb 8B), ...

YEEEEEEEEEA! AIRSTAR 8B ️ - another one of the lifetime list! Simply had to follow the sensei himself, @gabrimoroni

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

.... 'Dragon's Guardian' (Fb 8B) und...

Got to check out @paulrobinson87's area "Three Corners" yesterday, and was blown away by the quality and the potential of the area(s)! @martinmobraten and myself walked away with a send of the beautiful "Dragons Guardian" and @gabrimoroni climbed the "Yellow King". Regarding the grade on the Dragon it felt like a proper 8B to me, but it has to be said that we found new beta for the crux that for us at least made things slightly easier. King line regardless of grade, and props to Paul for the FA and all the work he has put into the area. People will have a Rocklands 2.0 at their disposal in a few years, thats for sure! : @paulrobinson87

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

.... 'Golden Shadow' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Got to tick of "Golden Shadow" 8B, "Night Show" 8A+ and "Natural Balance" 8A over the last two days

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

Martin Mobraten (NO) klettern 'Spray of Light' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Spray of light #getchaclimb #klatrebibelen #xcsports #buldrehallen #bouldering #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Mobråten (@martinmobraten) am

Erstbegehung: Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'Austere' (V13) in Lake Tahoe, CA (US)

Austere V13 (First Ascent), Azure Lake, California. Perfection. Fun day out with the crew @jwebxl @ramrod92 @jonathanethompson earlier this week. Sorry for the bad audio, there’s a lot of water raging under the talus. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @skratchlabs @frictionlabs @theboulderfield

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) am

Taylor McNeill (US) klettert 'Clan of the Cave Bears' & 'Mote in God's Eye' (beide V13) in Colorado (US)

Double day out in the alpine! After some brutal punts the day before, I got redemption and swooped up Clan of the Cave Bears and Mote in God’s Eye, both V13. One of the better days I’ve had climbing in a while. Sadly my trip has come to an end so it’s back to SLC... Until next time CO @ramrod92 with the •• •• @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Taylor McNeill (@mcneely23) am

Nalle Hukkataival (FI) räumt ab in den Rocklands (ZA)

Yesterday I had a very rare kind of day of just going climbing without too much of the work that goes into cleaning and opening new climbs. Thanks to the efforts of @fausey @tchadx @barefoot_charles @giuliano_cameroni I got to do a nice volume day in Dangerzone with Law and Order 8A+/B, Tail of Caracal 8A, Big Lil’ Lies 8A (flash), Hipster Whale 8A+ and also added a couple first ascents with Dayless day 7C+ and Hiding in the Shadows 8B for the new hardest problem in the area. Video: Microcline 8A+ Hiding In The Shadows 8B Dayless Day 7C+ #bouldering @blackdiamond @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) am

Nalle Hukkataival (FI) erschließt den Sektor "The Realm" in Rocklands (ZA)

Ordentliche Ticklist: Piotr Schab (PL) in Cuenca (ES)

This is how I feel about the first week in here The ticklist ️ La Esencia de Reptil 8c/+ 2nd go️ Nuria 8c OS ️ Neo 8c (8b+) OS ️ Nikita 8b OS ️ Luke Skywalker 8b OS ️ 6 x 8a+ OS ️ 4 x 8a OS ️ • @lenadrapella • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @wildcountry_official @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @sublimeclimbing #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #cuenca #españa

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) am

Gabriele Moroni (IT) crusht die Rocklands (ZA)

Finally back in South Africa! So excited to be here with some of my best friends! Days are going too fast and we are almost halfway through our 3 weeks trip! I am trying to climb as much as possible on new(for me) stuffs and even had the chance to check out one of @paulrobinson87 areas in the Cederberg with Paul himself and the Norvegian crew. I managed to do some hard boulders too, a few 8b’s like Ubuntu,Airstar,a freshie from @nalle_hukkataival , Hiding in the Shadows and yesterday @paulrobinson87 The Yellow King( @martinmobraten ) in Driehook. Bring on the second half of the trip!... #e9team #petzlteam #scarpaspa #frictionlabs #chalkmatters @e9clothing_official @petzl_official @scarpaspa @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Gabriele Moroni (@gabrimoroni) am

Clément Lechaptois (FR): Bouldern in Rioupéroux (FR)

Mit Malédiction (Fb 8C) hatte der Franzose bereits im März einen Coup gelandet. Hier ist nun das Video zur Erstbegehung und einige weitere Perlen des Bouldergebiets Rioupéroux bei Grenoble.

Niccolo Ceria (IT) flasht 'Trifecta Middle' (Fb 8B) in Flock Hill (NZ)

Flashed @chris_sharma "Trifecta Middle" today at Flock Hill! Another world classic problem off from the life time list! @photographic_expeditionary @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Niccolò Ceria (@niky_ceria) am

und kann als erster 'Gisele Bündchen' klettern.

Taking down the first ascent of one the longest standing projects of New Zealand better known as "Gisele Bundchen"! @photographic_expeditionary with the shot! @adidasterrex #adidasterrex @flathold @frictionlabs #chalkmatters

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Niccolò Ceria (@niky_ceria) am

Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington (CA) in Alaska (US)

Here are two new routes Gabe Hayden and I put up this past week on the Taku Towers of the Juneau Ice Cap: SolarSphere 12a, 360m and Sweet & Spicy 11c, 360m. We added in two bolts for SolarSphere, one to protect the crux boulder problem, which was aided on FA, then freed once the bolt was in place, and the other at the belay stance of pitch 3. We hope to encourage others to go check them out. The rock quality is really great out there! @arcteryx @lasportivana @julboeyewearna @canadianalpinetools

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) am

Erstbegehung: Arnaut Petit (FR) am Tsaranoro in Madagaskar

Long, sustained, beautiful. On this unique featured granit made for face climbing, with a surreal bivy spot in the middle - for the ones who wants to enjoy even more the wall : I have the feeling « Soavadia » put up in 6 days by our team @ffme_rocaventure will become a classic. Thank you to Amélie Bonnet, who draw us the mountain. The @ffmontagne_escalade rocaventure is supported by @millet_mountain and @bealropes I want to thanks @petzl_official @patagonia_climb @scarpaspa @lyofood @vertical.life.climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Arnaud Petit (@arnaudpetit_climb) am

Piotr Schab (PL) klettert fast 8c+ onsight

Best/worst climbing day ever? Today everything was surreal. Woke up at 5:30 to avoid the 35 degree heat. Started with a long-awaited try on Potemkin 8c+ and I must admit that I’ve never come so close to onsighting a route. Fought super hard to fall on the very last move, basically holding the top jug. No words to describe my disappointment at that moment... 3h later, another sector, Punch on Ire 8c. No chalk, No draws, super sandy. I gave it all, barely passed through the crux, then rested well before the last moves that turned out to be very easy. Grabbed the top of the rock that was full of mud and moss, so I decided to take a step back and clip from the smaller holds below.. Then the foothold broke, I fell, the chain remained unclipped. „Screw this, I’ve done the whole route, I take it” - these were my first words. Now, few hours later, I simply cannot. To onsight an 8c+ is my dream. Today I’ve ALMOST fulfilled the dream and then basically climbed another 8c. I am frustrated, but on the other hand I’m proud. I’ll try to pick myself up and keep on fighting. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right?‍️ • • • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @wildcountry_official @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @sublimeclimbing #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #cuenca #españa

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) am