Highlights: Ondra, Firnenburg, Jung, Hayes

Adam Ondra klettert in Mavrovo, Mazedonien
Foto: Bernardo Gimenez

Hier gibt's die härtesten Routen und Boulder-Begehungen der letzten Wochen. Dabei: Adam Ondra, David Firnenburg, Daniel Jung und Margo Hayes.

David Firnenburg (DE) klettert 'Le Cadafist' (9a) in St. Leger (FR)

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„Le Cadafist“ (9a) • Good news from Saint-Léger. Yesterday David sent this beautiful line after a heartbreaking fall from the very top because of a foot slip. It‘s the 2nd ascent after Gerome Pouvreau‘s FA in 2017. • As far as we know @adam.ondra broke off a key hold during his onsight attempt but the route still climbs really well. Bouldery moves on clean rock with mini tufa-pinches, pockets and crimps. Pumpy when you link them! • One more week to come with @andrea_kuemin here in Southern France We still want to check out Mollans. A nearby area with steep overhangs and tons of hard routes. It looks impressive. Allez • #makemovesnowar @scarpa_de @sporthilfe @frictionlabs @neprosport @haglofs @escaladrome_hannover @scarpaspa #davsektionrheinlandköln • #climbing #grimper #klettern #stleger #saintleger #rockclimb #montventoux #lifeisgood #psyched #chalkmatters #keepclimbing #noplacetoofar #beattheelements #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am

... und 'Molasse'son' (8c+/9a) in Mollans (FR)

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„Mollasse‘son“ (8c+/9a) • Sweet ending for David of an amazing rock climbing trip to Southern France with @andrea_kuemin which unfortunately came to an end • We spent 3 weeks in St. Leger and Mollans-sur-Ouveze and did tons of hard climbing meters on the rope. Redpoint and onsight. • We definitely have to come back one day because we left so many nice lines unclimbed. But now it‘s time for one more week rock climbing in Switzerland and then back to serious winter training in the gym as #brothersinarms for next comp season‍️‍️ • #makemovesnowar @sporthilfe @scarpa_de @neprosport @haglofs @frictionlabs @scarpaspa @escaladrome_hannover #davsektionrheinlandköln • #climbing #rockclimb #mollans #stleger #mtventoux #firnenburgbrothers #rockclimbing_pictures_of_instagram #klettern #chalkmatters #keepclimbing #noplacetoofar #beattheelements

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David & Ruben Firnenburg (@firnenburgbrothers) am

Erstbegehung: Daniel Jung (DE) klettert 'Karamba Karacho' (9a?)

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Karamba Karacho is done. Finally I was lucky to link everything to one big line! 50 moves of powerful roof climbing. The crux is at the ende: fighting on very sharp- skin cutting crimps and little pinches. Now it’s time to focus on training, I need to gain my pinch power and a bit of power resistance.. Picture by @hanneskutza @blackdiamond @fiveten #liveclimbrepeat #brandofthebrave #phantasialand #schlüsselstelle #jungsboulderhalle

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Daniel Jung (@danieljungg) am

Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert Mazedoniens erste 9a

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Another Balcan destination, another country, another awesome bunch of people, another great place to climb and another great routes and projects to climb. For the last two days, I climbed in Mavrovo, Macedonia. I managed to climb a mindblowing @kbecan25 's project and it became the Macedonian's first 9a. Yesterday I bolted and cleaned harder exit. @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon Pic by @bernardo_gimenez

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am

Erstbegehung: Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Czech Trip' (9a+) in Mazedonien

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After making the first ascent of @kbecan25 's project, Macedonian Trip 9a, I bolted considerably harder exit, making a 50m long king line. Yesterday, on my first serious try after a day of bolting and cleaning, I made the first ascent of Czech Trip 9a+ (hard). Pic by @bernardo_gimenez @montura_official @mytendon @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @gardatrentino

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am

Martin Mayer (DE) klettert 'Burn for you' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

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Had a great weekend in frankenjura. Sun, no clouds and finally some could conditions. Really happy to have finished this beautiful line 'Burn4u, 8c' thanks to everybody, wo supported me trying this beast. #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #oldschoolrocks #rockclimbing #noplacetoofar #chalkiswhite #getmoregrip #frankenjura #climbing @scarpa_de @abk_company @climbskinspain @goodgripinfo @whiteoutclimbing @caspersclimbingshop

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Mayer (@oldschool_rocks) am

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Headcrash' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

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What a perfect #autum day. Could climb "Headcrash" (8c) (finally, after falling 5 times at the top!). Afterwards could make a quick ascent of the great "Mastermind" (8b+). Quite lucky to get that I sticked the moves at the top, after I could climbing the crux. Great fun! Thanks @juliansoehnlein for bolting this route. . is from a try in Headcrash . . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de #climbnowworklater #noplacetoofar #frankenjura

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am

Markus Bock (DE) klettert 'The Funeral' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)

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See you at your funeral! „The Funeral“ 8B+. Thanks for the spot @stefantheokoch Pictures: @mike_bauer71 Thanks @scarpa_de @organicclimbing @fazabrushes

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Markus Bock (@bock.markus) am

Erstbegehung: Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Agnes Buen' (9a) in Oslo (NO)

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Agnes Buen was bolted about 25 years ago and has become the most notorious project in Oslo since then. All the Norwegian strong men and a few international stars tried the route back in the 90s but got shut down. I think it was written off for many years until it was tried again by some friends of mine and I went out to try it myself. All the moves went within a session or two but they all felt really hard and linking them impossible. That season I had about five days on it, and ultimately I was able to make a link up to the crux, but there was just no way that the crux would go ground up anytime soon. The weather got bad and that was that. Two years passed without trying, but the route was still in the back of my mind. Fast forward to 2018, and after a long competition season I was very motivated to give myself the time to just maybe get it done this season. With no trips planed for a few months I started trying the route mid August in bad conditions to get it dialed for when the crisp conditions would arrive, as the window for good conditions in Norway is often very short. Minimum once a week I went out to try it. After about five sessions of working on it conditions arrived, and I had three solid sessions with exceptionally good friction. I was linking up to the crux most of my attempts but the low percentage crux move eluded me time and time again. The more I fell on the move the more I lost hope. As long as there is progress everything is cool, and generally I'm good at seeing progress in small details and not only in new high points, but eventually also the details were perfected and I was still falling over and over again on the same move. I even knew from the beginning that this stagnation probably would occur, and I thought I was prepared, but I wasn't, it was getting to me mentally. A lot of rain came in and made it impossible to try the route, I went to check the route a few times just to find it soaked. I thought thats it. I almost wanted the weather to suck so that I didn't have to keep failing. Continuation in the comment section!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

Margo Hayes (US) klettert 'Mind Control' (8c) in Oliana (ES)

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Another magical line in Oliana: Mind Control 8c Established in 2009 by @chris_sharma @jan_novak_photography @thenorthface @petzl_official @lasportivana @frictionlabs @dogearedjewelry

Ein Beitrag geteilt von MΔRGΩ HΔΨΣS (@margojain) am

Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'King of the Jungle' (V13) in Tahoe (US)

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Stoked on a productive season up at a new zone we call “The Den”. @ramrod92 and I cleaned and sussed this incredible compression feature and it ended up being one of the best hard lines I’ve done in quite some time. Cheers @carolinelovesphotos for the beautiful photo! :) ‘King of the Jungle’ V13 FA. #bouldering #southlaketahoe #theden @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jimmy Webb (@jwebxl) am

Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Sangre de Toro' (8b+, 6SL) an der Roten Wand (AT)

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“Sangre de Toro” (8b+/5.14a) what a route. Thanks to @luger_alex for the inspiration. 6 pitches of pure joy and some spicy runouts as well Big thanks to @paolosartophoto for following us with your camera on our latest adventures. And big thanks to the over-stoker Walli! @nadinewallner for the motivation belay.... (already a month ago) now it’s your turn.... #liveclimbrepeat @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @verivalbio @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @katadyn_group @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am

Guillaume Glairon Mondet (FR) klettert 'Asymptote' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

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-1 on the list!! Did Asymptote the other day, an rarelly reapeted 8B, finishing in the ️️️️️7C of Elementary. It’s probably soft for the grade once you find your proper beta. Thanks @pascalgagneux and @baptbincz for the pics, beta and motivation! @madrockclimbing @madrockeurope @blockoutofficiel #teambo #sharks

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Guillaume GLAIRON MONDET (@guittooo) am

Beto Rocasolano klettert 9a-Erstbegehung

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Days ago @betoboulder , known as a hard boulders climber, sent a project route at La #Pedriza (around 9a). Past weekend, just in Two days he could send Seta Negra 8c+ (#Cuenca). Really impressed by his progression in lead #climbing. Vamos Beto! @lasportivaspain @patxiusobiaga_pucseries @climbskinspain #climbing #rockclimbing #escalada #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorstyle #outdoor #outdoorsports #outdoors @canonespana

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Javi Pec (@javipec) am

Tilo Moser klettert 'Kanal im Rücken' (10) grünpunkt / clean

Foto: Archiv Moser
Tilo Moser hat Güllichs Meilenstein 'Kanal im Rücken' selbst abgesichert (auch: greenpoint) geklettert.

Orrin Coley klettert 'Sean’s Roof' (Fb 8A+) in the Peak District (GB)

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk klettert 'Raining Bats and Dogs' (8c) in Malham (GB)

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Raining Bats and Dogs (8c) . After falling off the same move (pictured) high on the headwall eleven (!) times, I was beyond psyched to get through it and climb to the top yesterday! Sometimes you have to just keep turning up and trying hard and hoping one day you don’t fall off. All it needed was Haribo Strawbs, some high pitched power screams, a bit of luck and a lesson in patience! Photo thanks to @johnthornton_photography Thanks to @jamesalexanderturnbull for all the belays, @tanya_meredith for getting me hooked on Strawbs and everyone else for making Malham such a fun place to be . Best part is I can stop resting as much now . #celebratewild #brandofthebrave #arcteryx #malham #batsanddogs #patience #routes #climbing @arcteryx @fiveten_official @dmm_wales @betaclimbingdesigns @organicclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von mina leslie-wujastyk (@minaclimbing) am

Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Jungfraumarathon' (9a) in Gimmelwald (CH)

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Voici un petit extrait de mon enchaînement hier après-midi. Accompagnée de @choongkatherine, j'enchaîne au 4ème essais "Jungfraumarathon" 9a à Gimmelwald. Kathy est très proche de l'enchaînement, on attend avec impatience la perf;-) autant dire qu'elle est en forme la machine choong.. @petzl_official @karpos @scarpaspa #gimmelwald #suisse #climbing #climbingrocks

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Cedric Lachat (@cedriclachat) am

Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Delirium' (V15), Lincoln Lake (US)

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I have been stressing hard over this line for the past week or so. After falling off the final move to the jug a few days back, it feels great to finish up “Delirium,” V15/8C up at Lincoln lake! This boulder is 18 moves long out a roof and sits at about 12,000 ft above sea level (~3,700 m)! It really required a sport climbing mentality of utilizing the rest in the middle and keeping it all together for the hard exit sequence. Thanks to @lancecarrera @punkaca @jeremy_fullerton , @isaac_palatt , nuno, Steven, frank, etc for hiking down there, moving pads, blocking sun, and motivating me to climb this thing! Can’t wait to train more and start working the next project of the season soon!#bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am

Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Wendelove' (Fb 8B) in Modrin (CZ)

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Wendolové 8B Modřín, great powerful line by @magnussbor! Love the rock around Děčín, there is still so much potential to find world class boulder like this one! On YouTube Wonderful day with @kac_stranik. #scarpaspa #singingrock #olymppraha #scarpacze @boulderliberec

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Martin Stráník (@martin.stranik) am

Kim Marschner (DE) rockt die Rocklands (ZA)

Erstbegehung: Joe Kinder (US) klettert 'Diarrhhea Mouth' (9a) in Rifle (US)

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And another one becomes a reality. I really needed this one. It’s great to feel centered again and know what makes me happy. I introduce to you the first ascent of Diarrhea Mouth, 9a. Bolted in May 2017, Rifle’s newest hard line. A hideous name, yup, but very appropriate on multiple levels so fu** it. Have at it kids. LOV Joe @steverokks photo on the last crux.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Joe Kinder (@joekinder) am

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Ace of Spade' (5.14d/15a) in Utah (US)

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Ace of Spade (14d/15a) 2nd asc. made a spontaneous trip out to UT to check out the poptire cave with @eline_lemenestrel. I have heard about this cave but had no idea what to expect. It is super remote and rugged. . I was shown an unrepeated James Litz line called Peruvian Necktie (15a). It had an alternate exit called Ace of Spade (14d). Both these lines immediately caught my eye. After a couple days of work I repeated Ace of Spade (fell twice at the v4 crux near the anchor haha due to 0 endurance) then began to try Peruvian Necktie. I ended up falling near the end of the final boulder a couple times. . Breakdown of Ace is intro 10 move v12/13 bloc, ok rest, 5 move v10, bad rest, 8 move v10 to 13a outro. I felt this line could be more 15a than 14d. peruvian is same first two boulders but finishes with a final v11/12 to 13b. this thing felt more 15b. . it felt good to get pumped again after taking 5 months off sport climbing. will return back for the necktie!! awesome effort with these two routes James!!!! . photos @mikecall

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Daniel Woods (@dawoods89) am

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert 'Isle of Wonder' (Fb 8B) in Owens Valley, Wales (GB)

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Isles of Wonder (8B). Great problem, terrible hike, perfect view! Only two days left in Wales, Northumberland is calling.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (@michielnieuw) am

Trainings-Krassowitsch des Tages: Toshi Takeushi (JP) schafft Hangwaage an kleinen Fingern

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First time ever I could do front lever with pinky finger by @keita_okamoto.a.k.a.okakei クライミング人生で初めて小指フロントレバーが出来た!!! 15歳からはじめたクライミング。32歳で今まで出来なかったことが出来る。クライミングは奥が深すぎる。 @soill @takehold @takeholdlv @heavy.japan @up.athlete @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Toshi Takeuchi (@toshi__takeuchi) am