Highlights: Karalus, Perwitzschky, Winter, Gassner

Jonas Winter klettert Dolby Surround 8c+/9a im Zillertal
Foto: Climb to Heaven

Auch im August und September wurde hart geklettert: Von Pakistan bis Canada, hier gibt es die schwersten Routen und Boulder der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Philipp Gassner (DE) flasht 'Lightsaber' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands (ZA)

Nice new boulder in roadcrew. ’Lightsaber’ 8a flash #rocklands @petzl_official @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Philipp Gaßner (@philipp.gassner) am


... und klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B)

Ubuntu 8b • striking line in #rocklands @vincentontherocks @petzl_official @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Philipp Gaßner (@philipp.gassner) am


Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert 'Bullrider' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)


Jonas Winter (CE) klettert 'Dolby Surround' (8c+/9a) im Zillertal (AT)

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Dolby surround (8c+/9a), zillertal . Sticking the finishing hold of the crux sequenz of this bouldery granite line above the beautifull mountin river was an overhelming feeling. I had to control my heartbeat and breathing wich went nuts to not mess up the last meters to the chain which are not hard but still demanding some focus and precision. I stayed in controll and clipped the chain with a scream which was maybe even louder than the waterfall which is giving this route a special atmosphere :) #liveclimbrepeat #chalkmatters #climbingpictures_of_instagram #climbtoheaveb #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Climb to Heaven (@climb_to_heaven) am


Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert 'Nose vs Beauty' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

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"Noise vs Beauty", 8C, Rocklands. Surprised myself with the 5th ascent of this beauty by @dawoods89 after finding a new double clutch beta for the crux. Might be a bit scary, but it was totally worth it. ( of the send coming soon) Thanks for spotting @vroooniiiii @philipp.gassner and the @baestey. @scarpa_de

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Perwitzschky (@moritz.perwitzschky) am


Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

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@jocelynchavy La Cabane au Canada, Rawyl . @thenorthface @thenorthfaceuk @michelin @petzl_official @arkose.climbing @lasportivagram @bloctrotters @payotte_officiel #climbing #rockclimbing #rawyl #switzerland #thenorthface #neverstopexploring #teammichelin #petzl #accesstheinaccessible #arkose #lasportiva #bloctrotters #payotte #achacunsoneverest

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Julia Chanourdie (@juliachanourdie) am


Mina Leslie-Wujastyk (GB) klettert Nordic Plumber (8c) in Flatanger (NU)

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Nordic Plumber (8c). This one gave me a proper good fight with a high redpoint crux and the pressure of the end of the trip looming near. So psyched to finish it yesterday with one day to spare! Photo thanks to @johnherberderber #celebratewild #brandofthebrave #climbing #climbflatanger #flatanger #arcteryx #fiveten @arcteryx @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @dmm_wales @betaclimbingdesigns

Ein Beitrag geteilt von mina leslie-wujastyk (@minaclimbing) am


Julia Chanourdie (FR) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

Excellent ! De retour à Rawyl pour une journée photos et vidéo avec @jocelynchavy dans mon récent 9a, j’enchaîne une seconde fois La Cabane au Canada . . Fun fact ! Back to Rawyl with @jocelynchavy for some pictures and video in my recent 9a, I sent La Cabane au Canada again . . @thenorthface @michelin @petzl_official @arkose.climbing @lasportivagram @bloctrotters @payotte_officiel . #climbing #rockclimbing #switzerland #rawyl #9a #lacabaneaucanada #pictures #thenorthface #neverstopexploring #teammichelin #petzl #accesstheinaccessible #arkose #lasportiva #bloctrotters #achacunsoneverest

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Julia Chanourdie (@juliachanourdie) am


Doro Karalus (DE) klettert 'Tor zur Hölle' & 'Triple X' im Frankenjura (DE)

Never enjoyed climbing in the #frankenjura as much as this summer So much, that I almost don't care if I end up sending something or not....But when it happens it's admittedly still kinda nice Did the super classic 'Tor zur Hölle' 8A+ trav ️ and 'Triple-X' 8A+ (ish?) the past 2 days. Looking forward to more beautiful days in the forest Especially with the colder temps! #liveclimbrepeat @blackdiamond @evolv_worldwide

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dorothea Karalus (@dorokara) am


... und XXL (Fb 8A)

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I used to be kinda intimidated by long steep problems. A hot summer hiding in the dark caves of #frankenjura (XXL 8A) has changed that... and now I actually like it! So fun to get more diverse as a climber... means many new problems to try. : @lars.decker.549 @blackdiamond @evolv_worldwide Looooove the #EvolvAgro, the perfect shoe for steep climbs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dorothea Karalus (@dorokara) am


Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Dreamcatcher' (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

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Success!! A couple days ago the cool air rolled through Squamish and I was able to satch up ‘Dreamcatcher’ 9A. I’ve had many goals throughout my climbing but this route has always stood out to me among the rest. Huge props to @chris_sharma for establishing one of the most aesthetic lines you’ll ever see. Sticking the finish jug was most certainly a feeling I will never forget! Huge thanks to @kevintakashismith for the sick .. #lifegoals #travel #success #squamish #love @hippytree @fiveten_official @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jimmy Webb (@jwebxl) am


Jimmy Webb (US) crusht in Fontainebleau (FR) und Cresciano (CH)


Federica Mingolla (IT) befreit 'Addio al Celibato' (8a+, MSL) in Gole di Frasassi (IT)

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Il @frasassiclimbingfestival di quest'anno mi ha regalato un giorno di arrampicata in compagnia di @matteodellabordella su una delle vie multipitch più difficili della Gola di Frasassi: "Addio al Celibato" finita di chiodare da @samuele_mazzolini nel 2015. Da oggi questa via esce dall'anonimato perché oltre a sapere che è dura sappiamo anche I gradi Dopo essere riuscita a scalare I tiri chiave posso dire che siamo intorno all' 8a+ e il 7c+. Presto(o tardi ) più informazioni su questa splendida via ! Nella : 1° tiro di 8a+ , un sogno @zerogravityproductionsitalia . . This year at the @frasassiclimbingfestival I had the honor to climb with @matteodellabordella and we tried to freeclimb an hard multipitch route in Gole di Frasassi : "Addio al Celibato" bolted by @samuele_mazzolini and with a magnific limestone After being able to freeclimb the two hard pitches I could say they are 8a+ and 7c+, hoping to have more opinions about this route soon . .@zerogravityproductionsitalia. . @adidasterrex @adidasterrex_climb @asporteyewear @lasportivagram @petzl_official @sherpamountainshop . . #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_girls_of_instagram #climbing #outdoors #lifestyle #fcf #multipitch #goledifrasassi

Ein Beitrag geteilt von federica mingolla (@federica_mingolla) am


Angus Kille (GB) klettert 'Trauma' (E8 7a) in Wales (GB)

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I've had an on-off obsession with this iconic route for years, can't believe I finally managed it yesterday . There's an awesome flow to climbing the technical sequence when you have it really wired, it was incredible executing all of that on the lead. Originally given E9 by Leo and still worth about 8a+ sport, it's ace to have a steep and sustained trad route in the Pass . Thanks @calummuskett for a loyal belay, @gaiaadventures for holding my falls earlier in the week, @j.bunney for this cracking photo and @white_van_media for getting some exciting footage I can't wait to see. And thanks Bunney, Hans and Calum for hanging around in the cold yesterday while I waited for my fingers to thaw and finally tie-in! . Trauma E8 7a . @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk #northwales #snowdonia #snowdonianationalpark #mountains #outdoors #snowdoniagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing #tradclimbing #tradisrad #instafit #outdooradventures #northwalestagram #rockclimbing #exploremore #adventure #cymru #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbinglife

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Angus Kille (@angus.kille) am


Gérome Pouvreau & Florence Pinet räumen in Großbritannien ab

Foto: pinetflorence.blogspot.com
Florence Pinet in Pembroke.

Das französische Paar Gérome Pouvreau und Florence Pinet konnten in Wales einige Toplinien klettern. Beide wiederholten The Big Issue (E9 6c), Chupacabra (E8/9 6c) und Point Blank (E8 6c) in Pembroke, Gérome gelang auch noch Muy Caliente (E10 6c). Außerdem kletterten beide The Quarryman (E8 7A) in den Llanberis Slate Quarries. Dann reisten die starken Franzosen noch nach Schottland und in Dumbarton konnte Gérome noch Rhapsody (E11 7a) und Requiem (E8 6b) klettern.

Madeleine Cope (GB) klettert 'Mustang' (8a trad) in Cadarese (IT)

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Another day, another crack climb, and another story about @hazel_findlay. I belayed Hazel on Mustang (8a trad) on our first visit to Cadarese. She managed an impressive onsight, which on this sort of tricky lay back means trusting blindly placed gear and/or running it out. Hazel ran it out, but I think I was more scared than her and this belay was a memorable one. I didnt have that sort of confidence so I took some practise falls and was happy to climb it on my second go, sweating it out in the full sun and forgetting the sequence I had worked on out my first go. There is a funky boulder problem to gain the lay back and then you just have to keep moving - what's not to like. #hammerlinie @mammut_uk @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Maddy Cope (@madeleine_cope) am


... und 'The Doors' (8a trad)

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The Doors (8a+/8a/7c+/whatever on trad) has been a dream route of mine ever since @hazel_findlay and I visited Cadarese 5 years ago. I hadn't done much crack climbing at this point and mostly bounced around on a top rope, but something about this style of climbing lured me in. Watching @hazel_findlay style The Doors only inspired me more. Since then this style of climbing has led me across the pond and up El Cap. But this year Ryan and I decided to kit out our van and explore Europe rather than pay out for flights to the States. Unfortunately, on route to Cadarese our home broke down. We spent a morning driving to different garages, trying to communicate with a distinct lack of Italian, and worrying whether it was going to cost the equivalent of flights to the States to fix. Luckily, we were back on the road by lunchtime. Feeling pretty drained we decided to ease ourselves in at Cadarese - do some mileage. However, watching Jonny dig deep on The Doors, I couldn't resist. I got reasonably far on my first go, but after falling and working out the crux I seemed to have an instant sugar crash from the 2 pastries I had eaten to celebrate the van being fixed. I struggled my way to the top, drenched in sweat in the humidity, getting scared above my bomber cams, and taking about 20 tries to commit to the last move. I guess I felt a bit dejected, but it was nothing a packet of crisps and beer couldn't sort out. I decided to give The Doors a rest for a couple of days. Today I went back and after an initial working go to get the moves sussed and decide on gear I managed to send the route. It wasn't exactly 'a muete' (in Ryan's words I rested my way up it) but I really enjoyed the climb and definitely had to lay one on for the last hold! Thanks to @hazel_findlay for the #thedoors #dreamline @mammut_uk @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Maddy Cope (@madeleine_cope) am


Erstbegehung: Read MacAdam (CA) klettert 'Back to the Future' (8b+) in Droide, Valle Dell’Orco (IT)

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Our own @readmacadam climbed his mini-proj on Saturday night, a previously unclimbed (we think) line “tik tok sok” at Droide crag in Valle Dell’Orco. In Canadian tradition he proposes to rename it "Back to the Future" and says could be in the 8b+ range. Allez, let’s go! #exploreclimbing #ifeelwood

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Explore Climbing (@exploreclimbing) am


Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert 'Parzival' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Made the first ascent of Parzival 8C] last week out in the Gallery This amazing line baffled me the first time I saw it years ago; it looked super cool but I had no clue how to climb it After stumbling upon it again during a hike this this season I saw astonished that it possibly could work, and if so, it would be a crazy epic two-part rig which sits at the base of this crazy disc shaped bloc suspended over a small canyon and summits directly up the prow . After the initial beta hunting sessions had ensued, it was quite clear it was gonna not be easy to conquer this beast Super technical yet fierce in its nature, this thing is a crazy mix of power-resistance climbing, body position, memory, kneebars and yes; blind toe-hooking !!! I was enchanted by the style of climbing, the rock, and its length; early on the fear set in of punting of the complex 8a finish once your done with the poor rest Ultimately it took many sessions to become familiar with the super burly entrance, extremely dry conditions, and a little bit of luck that everything sort of slides in to place to take this one to the top️One week left before Switzerland to play with all the infinite boulders here VAMOSSSS @island_io @fiveten_official @petzl_official @frictionlabs @sendclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am


Stephan Vogt (DE) klettert 'Shangri-La' (11-/11) im Frankenjura

Got to send my second hardest route and first 8c+ "Shangri La" this weekend. This is one of the best routes I ve ever done! Every move intense. Feels good to rockclimb again :) thanks @guidokoestermeyer for this perfect climb and @frau.frisch for the catch! We are not going to Schlaraffenland again anytime soon. I promise . Also thanks to @elias.kruger for helping me climb the route. Without him this wouldn t have been possible ;) :P Thanks Brian #rockclimbing #frankenjura #madrockeurope @madrockclimbing @madrockeurope @nihilclothing #nihilclothing #myownchalkbag @myownchalkbag #chalkiswhite @whiteoutclimbing @bertablockboulderhalle @magicmountainberlin #teambertablock @teambertablock

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stephan Vogt (@stephan_vogt1) am


Nalle Hukkataival (FI) klettert 'Kingda Ka' (Fb 8B) am Gotthard (CH)

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Kingda Ka 8B legendary vert test piece opened by @giuliano_cameroni ️@blackdiamond @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nalle Hukkataival (@nalle_hukkataival) am


Katherine Choong (CH) klettert 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) in Rawyl (CH)

Yeahh !! I’m incredibly happy to have climbed yesterday CABANE AU CANADA, my first 9a ! This route is a huge achievement for me and the hardest I have ever done. After falling again and again a few meters under the chains on a dynamic move, yesterday, the 4th climbing day in a raw, on the 3rd attempt of the day, exhausted, something clicks: I found my flow, every move felt much easier, I was finally ready to give it all. I sticked the dyno and clipped the chains a few minutes before the night. That’s the magic of climbing I guess What an epic day ! Thanks everyone for your kind messages, Rainer Eder and Marco Felix for capturing the moment and Jim for supporting me in every moment. Picture : @rainer_eder @mammut_swiss1862 @scarpaspa @banquecantonaledujura

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Katherine Choong (@choongkatherine) am


Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington (CA) klettert 'Crouching Tiger' (5.12b+, 500m)

Complete! We finished our new line on the Chinese Puzzle Wall called Crouching Tiger, 12b+, 500m. With @caronorthofficial and @climbwritekalman . We established the route by aid over the course of 5 days, then went back to free climb it in a long day. I’ll post the link to my blog in my profile to see the full topo. This is the sister route to Hidden Dragon, a line which @mdre92 and I established in 2016 when we planned on returning for Crouching Tiger. #chinesepuzzlewall #chilliwackbc @arcteryx @lasportivana @julboeyewearna @canadianalpinetools #freeclimbing #alpineclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) am


Hazel Findlay (GB) klettert 'Super Cirill' (8a) im Tessin (CH)

Super Ciril. This route has been on my hit list for a while now and it didn’t disappoint. Superb European trad comparable in quality to harder free climbing classics in Yosemite. I felt super tired the first day on it but after some chill time by the lake it went down pretty easily. So nice to do some hard moves after all the alpine ledge shuffling I’ve been doing this summer. @jonny__baker @blackdiamond @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Hazel Findlay (@hazel_findlay) am


Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'Ubuntu' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Such a beautiful line, "Ubuntu" (8B) @_burney . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Rocklands #Southafrica #Africa #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Zillertal #klettern #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am


Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'The Smile' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

First ascent of this unique boulder called “The Smile” (8c)


... und 'Black Eagle' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)


Daniel Woods (US) wiederholt 'Skadoosh' (Fb 8B+) in Rocklands (ZA)


Marine Thevenet (FR) klettert 'Law and Order' (Fb 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)


Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Let the Right one in' (V14) in Mt Evans (US)


Chaehyeon Seo (KOR), 14 Jahre alt, klettert 'Bad Girls Club' (5.14d) in Rifle (US)


Erstbegehung: Nicoas Favresse, Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz eröffnen Routen im Thagas Valley, Pakistan

Foto: Jean-Louis Wertz

Nicos Kurzbericht:

"Thagas Valley remains with several beautiful unclimbed peaks and great objectives rock and mix climbs. From our experience the rock was generally not as good as it looked like from a distance but still good fun.

This is the two climbs we opened in Thagas valley.

- 31/07-5/08 First ascent of Pathan peak (+-6000m) via The Pathan pillar - 6b - A1 (which could be free climbed at around 7a) - 900meters. Over the course of 3 days we fixed the first 300 meters then we spent another 2 days on the wall fixing some extra meters above our portaledges before making our push to the summit. Team : Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molina, Jean-Louis Wertz and Nicolas Favresse

-15/08 First ascent of Pathani Peak (+- 6000m) via Pathani 6a ,M6, 600m (300m of snow ramp + 300m of technical climbing) opened by Carlitos Molina and Nicolas Favresse in a 17h round trip from camp to camp."

Im 4. Monat schwanger: Caroline Ciavaldini (FR) klettert 8a onsight

Japan - in between 2 #sawanobori . I surprised myself with an onsight of Dr meïji, 8a in Gozene iwa, at 4 months and a half of pregnancy! Began the day hoping to top rope a 7b, but the crag was very good, overhanging, and I knew I could trust my belayer @honngy for a very soft belay... So I jumped onto that route, it attracted me... I am pretty sure that mini enjoyed it too, he always seems happy to climb... What we don't like : hiking. Even worst is the idea of running. . I guess pregnancy is all about what your body is used to, and listening to your sensations. For those who would worry for us, don't, I get a lot of advices from my friend @carole_palmier_climb, mid wife And 8c+ climber! . @thenorthfaceuk @wildcountry_official @lasportivagram #neverstopexploring #pureclimbing Thanks @maechan82kgclimber for the great picture!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Caro&James Ciavaldini/Pearson (@onceuponaclimb) am