Highlights: Hanke, Ondra, Faus, Wientjes, Fell

Flo Wientjes bouldert Golden Gate 8B Silvretta
Foto: Archiv Wientjes

Die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen auf einen Blick – dabei: Chiara Hanke, Adam Ondra, Isabelle Faus, Flo Wientjes, Frederike Fell... und noch ein paar mehr.

Hier gibt es die krassesten Boulder und Routen-Begehungen der letzten Wochen. Erstbegehungen sind auch dabei, und dann vielleicht noch die Spurenbeseitigung von Begehungen...

Chiara Hanke (DE) klettert 'Wallstreet' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Woooop still can't believe it!!!!! Manage to climb the#classic wallstreet (8c) as the first german woman!! Such a amazing line @scarpa_de @scarpaspa @bealropes @bergzeit @ropeless Thanks @white_van_media for the picture and @franzi_dietz and @pascal_frentiu for the belay and the amazin day

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chiara Hanke (@chiara_hanke) am


Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'First Flight' (8c+) onsight

First Flight 8c+ onsight. Followed by Ojas 8b+ onsight (slab!). Waited for the rain to wash the chalk down from Ojas to get proper experience. Pic from First Flight by @bernartwood @blackdiamond @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon @gardatrentino

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am


Erstbegeuhung: Paul Robinson klettert 'The Pirate’s Code' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

To describe something so meaningful and time consuming to me in a single post...Where do you start? In 2014 I guess... I found this boulder tucked away in the shadow of a beautiful cedar tree. The sun was setting and the boulder was glowing. I gazed upon the small holds and pondered if the line was feasible. I put some chalk on my hands and felt the holds. I left that season having not tried the boulder but thinking about it constantly. I revisited the line in 2015. I had other projects that year and didn’t get to try it but it still remained in the forefront of my thoughts when I thought of dream first ascents in South Africa. Would it go? If it did, it was sure to be a gem. 2016... I tried it for the first time. I didn’t do many of the moves. It felt really hard. I needed to train harder and come back for this thing. 2017... the line was all I wanted to do. I did a sort of stand start but left SA without the main prize, the full line. I needed to get stronger. 2018... on my first day of working the line, it all felt different. The moves felt better. I knew this could be the season. I put in a few days on the line and started to get closer. After a big snow storm, the temps were perfect, the wind was blowing, and I knew it was time. As the sun set and I set my pads out, I felt a sense of peace. I didn’t feel nervous anymore like I had in the past. I tried a few of the moves and decided to give it a try from the start. From the moment I pulled onto the wall, I climbed flawlessly. First crux done, second done, third crux, the stab move to the slot... done. The only thing separating me from the top of the boulder was a ~V8/7B+ section. Without hesitating, I climbed it and found myself topping out on the finishing jugs. Surreal is an understatement. 2014-2018 this climb, this single boulder that no one else in the world may have ever seen before me, had been finally climbed in a mere 1 minute of time. It’s kind of hard to wrap my head around still days later. Climbing is my life. Climbing brings me so much joy and happiness. To all the climbers out there, don’t take it for granted and appreciate it all. from the FA of “The Pirate’s Code” V15/8C. #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Paul Robinson (@paulrobinson87) am


Isabelle Faus (USA) klettert 'doppelgänger Poltergeist' (Fb 8B) in Rocky Mountain National Park (USA)

Samuel Elias (US) klettert 'Shadowboxing’ (5.14d) in Rifle (US)

@bookofsamuel taking down one of the best in Rifle, ‘Shadowboxing’ (5.14d)

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matty Hong (@honngy) am


Emma Twyford (GB) klettert 'Nightmayer' (E8 6c) in Dinas Cromlech, Wales (GB)

That dream line! One that has eluded me with the weather and work over the last couple of years. I’d first seen and heard about Nightmayer (E8 6c) watching the video of @nicofavresse taking some air miles off the head wall whilst nick bullock looked on. Maybe this is what put people off for so many years. I first seriously thought about this route when Alex mason was looking at it and achieved an impressive 3rd ascent followed the next year by @angus.kille with an equally impressive ascent. The Cromlech has an intimidating yet impressive aura with some of the best trad climbing around. This was my last king line on the cromlech that I was mega psyched to try. On the day it still had its spicy moments. Myself and @jamestayloroutdoor rocked up to find a random wet streak on house of god into and out of the porthole. Needless to say this was terrifying on lead as the bottom is bold with small kit. It took a lot of mental effort to change my mental set up for the top hard section but I was ready to fight to the top. Perfect climbing with just the right amount of good kit to run it out and take some good air miles if you fluff it! Still in awe of @Steve.mayers first ascent of this line back in 1992! Really puts things in perspective, great effort Steve! Thanks to @jamestayloroutdoor for the belay, your next buddy! And @j.bunney for the @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk @frictionlabs @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @climbskinspain @v12_outdoor @northdartmoorsearchrescueteam @pongoose.climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Emma Twyford (@emmatwyford) am


Frederike Fell (DE) klettert 'Odd Fellows' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

First 8c "Odd fellows" • and support by @kletter__fabi • #climbing#rockclimbing#frankenjura#fun#lasportiva#mantleclimbing#boulderweltathletenteam

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Frederike Fell (@fredi.fell) am


Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Via Italia' (8a) am Piz Ciavazes, Dolomiten (IT)

Super happy that I could free climb "Via Italia" (8a, 280m) this weekend at Piz Ciavazes, Dolomites. In detail the pitches are 3, 6a+, 7b, 7c+, 8a, 6b, 7a+, all in all quite steep climbing on mainly pitons of very different quality. Especially the steep 7c+ with a crimpy finish and the 6 meter roof of the 8a pitch are very spectacular. I fell once in each of these hard pitches at the last moves, before being able to send them. Quite a mental game in the end, being able to focus enough and simply climb in this steep and exposed setting. As I never climbed the last 7a+ pitch before, I was not sure what to expect there, but could luckily onsight it. . Thanks @maexdauser for the hours belaying at steep, uncomfortable, and exposed belays. And thanks to Lorin, with whom I checked out the hard pitches few weeks ago, which helped a lot. . (1) Happy faces in the evening light after completing the route. (2) Mäx at the last moves of the 7c+ pitch. Stay tuned, I've got some moving pictures as well the next days. . . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de #climbnowworklater

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am


Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert 'Simple Knowing' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Simple Knowing • 8B ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ This one was just as good as expected! Had a decent flash go but things went downhill from there. Hours into the session I found some crucial micro thumb beta that unlocked the far move to the crimp. I sat down, knew that I was tired, knew that I had to climb fast, knew that I needed some luck, and somehow pulled it off! Very satisfying send! ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀ : @sverrejohnsen

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am


Annaliina Laitinen (FI) klettert 'Law and Order' (Fb 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)

Send pic of ”Law and Order, 8a+” by @jonglassberg a couple of days ago !!! I quess this one fitted me well cause it came down suprisingly fast! After doing the moves I did it on my 2nd or 3rd go on my second session on it!!! SO HAPPY!!!! One of the coolest boulder I’ve done @mountainhardwear @louderthan11 #rocklands2018 @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @tah.to @kiipeilyareena @lasportivagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anna Liina Laitinen (@annaliinalaitinen) am


Angus Kille klettert Indian Face (E9 6c), Clogwyn Y Arddu, Wales, (GB)

Stunning picture of Cloggy with a few blue pixels of me on the great slab, climbing Indian Face E9 6c . This iconic route has inspired me for as long as I've been a climber, but I never thought I'd reach the standard of it. It was difficult to justify, but in the end leading Indian Face was the only way to get this infamous route out of my head . Thanks @mattstygallguiding for this main photo and @jamestayloroutdoor for the others. Another big thanks to James for being the best climbing partner I could ask for yesterday . @dmm_wales @scarpa_uk #climbing #rockclimbing #mountains #landscape #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #tradisrad

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Angus Kille (@angus.kille) am


Nils Favre (CH) klettert 'El Corazon' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

so warm here in Rocklands! But I just climbed one of my dream line! . After complaining all day that conditions were horrible. I waited all afternoon to have one try just before the night. . Around 10years ago, @dawoods89 made me dream in the progression movie by jumping with one hand on a small crimp. 4years ago, I felt really strong but understood that this boulder wasn’t for me, too far, too hard... . Two days ago I did the big move on my second try and realized that I‘m able to climb this rock! Today was warm but just before the night I had one successful try. . It’s far from my hardest boulder but I needed to focus and try hard to send. I feel really happy and proud to add this one in my ticklist. It was definitely a dream and I feel really lucky to have the opportunity to try it today! . “El Corazon, 8B”! . Felt this grade for me and my size! . #pourla2 #milletriseup @millet_mountain @blackdiamond_climb @lookmontagne @climbskinspain @flathold #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nils Favre (@nilsfavre) am


Piotr Schab (PO) klettert 'Ali Hulk Extension Total' (9a+) in Rodellar (ES)

Whoooooaaaaaaaaa What a brilliant way to finish the trip Ali went smooth, didn’t mess up Hulk, Extension felt easy, Total made me FIGHT ️ ️ Ali Hulk Extension Total 9a+ ️ Thank you everybody for the betas, pads&kneepads, cheer and motivation! • • • • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @wildcountry_official @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @sublimeclimbing #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #rodellar

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) am


Dave Fitzgerald (IE) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood (CH)

New Baseline (8B+/v14). by @mytherapyphysio The perfect line. This one meant a lot. @moonclimbing @greatoutdoors76 @lasportivagram #climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Fitzgerald (@dv_fitzgerald) am


Alizée Dufraisse (FR) klettert 'Leopard Cave' & 'Law and Order' (beide FB 8A+) in Rocklands (ZA)

After the rain we have some good days ️ I am happy that I manage to send Leopard Cave and here Law and Order, both 8a+/V12 video and music @dave_graham_ @tenayaclimbing @rab.equipment @arkose.climbing @petzl_official #wearerab #bouldering #rocklands

Ein Beitrag geteilt von alize dufraisse (@alizee_dufraisse) am


Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Warrior Up' (V14) am Mount Evans (US)

Warrior Up (V14) Psyched to do this one quickly (2nd-ish try on my 2nd-ish day)! Happy with this one, mostly because it’s my hardest outdoor send since my finger injury just over 3 months ago. If you would like to learn more about my recovery and some of the things I did to stay in shape while I couldn’t climb, please read the blog I wrote on the Madrock website (link in bio. And please remember I am not a professional writer ) Sending in the @madrockclimbing #drones of course. Been feeling the HVs lately. Comfy and sticky. @asanaclimbing @frictionlabs @kailas_climbing @tensionclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matt Fultz (@matt_fultz) am


Natalie Bärtschi (CH) klettert 'Swallow Cave' (Fb 8A) in Rocklands, ZA

Although this wasn‘t on top of my list, I‘m really happy to have sent Swallow Cave (8A) today! Kinda lowball but fun climbing with big moves on slopy holds Also #happyanniversary to the photographer, spotter and best boyfriend on the planet ️ Can‘t believe it‘s already 7 years that you‘re putting up with me #loveyou @petzl_official #accesstheinaccessible @fiveten_official #brandofthebrave @prana • #climbing #bouldering #southafrica #travel #rocklands #rockclimbing #outdoor #getoutside #bestspotter #girlswhoclimb #girlsboulder #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Natalie Bärtschi (@nataliebaertschi) am


Clement Lechaptois (FR) klettert 'Get railed' (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

REVENGE! 'Get Railed' 8B+] Oh man.. I've been consumed about this proud line for a while. Thanks a lot to every people who helped me to climb this thing! • @bould_herman • @arkose.climbing @frictionlabs @fiveten_official #arkose #arkoseclimbing #chalkmatters #frictionlabs #brandofthebrave #fiveten

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Clément Lechaptois (@clem_lechap) am


Flo Wientjes (DE) klettert 'Golden Gate' (Fb 8B) in der Silvretta (AT)

Golden Gate 8B

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Florian Wientjes (@testaro22a) am


Tilo Schroeter (SE) klettert 'Spray of Light' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Spray of Light • 8C

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am


Hansjörg Auer klettert die Westwand des Lupghar Sar West in Pakistan

▲ Lupghar Sar Solo Expedition ▲ I climbed the Westface of Lupghar Sar West for the first time. This ascent is very unique to me, because I was dreaming of it for the last 4 years. I always wanted to know how it feels to be alone in high altitude. And I’m happy that I made this experience. #NeverStopExploring : Lupghar Sar : Pakistan : @hansjoergauer

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Hansjörg Auer (@hansjoergauer) am


Jacqueline Fritz gewinnt Paraclimbing

Erfolgreicher Paraclimbingwettkampf in Imst/Tirol #canon #berghaus #grivel #fiedlerconcepts, #ledlencer, #ruffwear, #LandauRunningCompany, #TheRock, #Basislager, #josera, #tierarztdrgreiner #CuttingDepartment, #Lowa, #Bärenbrunnerhof, #KunstWerk, #FotoUndFilmproduktionLailaTkotz, #DAVLandau, #IBV, #Säulinghaus, #DomenicoPelella, #Dikoma, #NjuBiz, #MediaActive, #HoltNutritions #bellavitalis #rcolour, #GoPro #kletterretter

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jacqueline Fritz (@jacqueline.p.fritz) am


Chris Frick hält unsere Umwelt sauber

Being climbers it is our responsibility to take care for our playground : the rock, the mountains! . Last week @jonas.allemann and me cuted off or collected 150 m old, scruffy and destroyed fix ropes from the Geneva Pillar on the North Face of the Eiger... and carried the heavy loads up to the westringe and down to the valley for waste disposal... . It‘s strange nobody did it before, because some unused ropes dangled around for more than a decade! Littering is an issue that affects us all... . So if you find old and crappy mat, take it with you! Leave the mountains clean! . PS - we replaced some fixropes, but I promise to check these in the next few years if they need to be removed! . . #eiger #northface #cleaning #nolittering #issue #that #affects #us #all #climbing #klettern #escalade #multipitch #alpinesportclimbing #swissclimbing #climbingday #climbingisbliss #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_lovers #climbing_is_my_passion #c_l_i_m_b #onsight_climbing #climbingismypassion #climblife #rockclimbing #climblife #climber #climbingnation

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chris Frick (@chrisfrick_) am