Highlights: Megos, Hukkataival, Wohlleben & weitere
Hier gibt's den Überblick über die Highlights der Kletter-Meldungen. Alex Megos, Nalle Hukkataival, Daila Ojeda und viele mehr.
Hier gibt's den Überblick über die härtesten getätigten Züge der letzten Wochen. Besonders aktiv waren die Boulderer in den südafrikanischen Rocklands...
Alex Megos: 'Monkey Wedding' (Fb 8c) in Rocklands
Alex Megos: What?! That went faster than expected! First day here in Rocklands and already sent Monkey Wedding after just half an hour of working out the moves!
Did try it 3 years ago for half a day but thought I was too weak. This trip it didn't feel very hard at all! Totally suites my style I guess. Super excited for more!
Alex Puccio: 'No more greener Grasses' (V12)
Alex Puccio: A little late, but had a good weekend climbing outside! Pictured here is me sending No More Greener Grasses (V12/ 8A+) in Mt. Evans. This climb was hard for me, the end is a bit of my anti style I guess :-) Luckily I was able to send before the horrible storm! The next day we went for a mileage day in Upper Chaos at RMNP and I was able to get up Eternia (V11), Reternia (V11) and Dead Raccoon (V11). This was my first time ever checking out any of those boulders. Now taking a rest week, well just going to hike a lot, to give my arms, shoulders and fingers a little break. Love the summer time!!! Thank you Joel Zerr for the great photo!!! And thank you Nina Williams and James Lucas for the great climbing partners and entertainment!
Markus Jung: 'Black Label' (11) im Frankenjura
Markus: Black Label – Even though I know this line for a long time, somehow I never gave it a try. But then Pascal Frentiu made it look very attractive. This was a super hot weekend in Frankenjura, but: My skin was thick enough to cope with sweat. Luckily I could sent Black Label (9a) on Monday.
Seb Bouin: 'Legend' (9a) in Pic St. Loup
Seb Bouin: Legend!!! The first route of the Pic Saint Loup waited 20 years to have a Fisrt Ascent :-)
I did this beautiful powerful line today. For the grade I propose 9a. For sure one of the more beautiful on this crag.
It's time to pass on the next level: ariégeois cœur loyal the legend extension. It's my new bolted route where legend is just a way to arrive on the crux...
As always, Raphael Fourau was present to capture this nice picture.
Nalle Hukkataival The Finnish Line & Trust Issues
Nalle: Some climbs you remember for the rest of your life. First ascent of The Finnish Line at the Coop! A gem rarer than diamonds and a new contender for the hardest in Rocklands!
Foto: Kevin Takashi Smith
Nalle: Swooped it up!! Stuck the first ascent of Trust Issues (V14) at the Realm yesterday! Feels amazing to check this one off of the top of my list since finding it back in May! Thanks for the photo Kevin Takahashi Smith!
Ubuntu (Fb 8B)
Keenan Takahashi: Rocklands delivers!! This is the first ascent of Ubuntu (Fb 8B?), a South African word describing our interconnectedness as humans and growth through community. The night before, a guy shattered his ankle at the Sassies and everyone rallied to carry him out and make sure he got to the hospital ASAP. It gave me a glimpse of hope for humanity if shit hits the fan. I feel incredibly grateful for my friends spotting me while scrambling, and to the super supportive landing-building, photographing, master image-maker Kevin Takashi Smith. Stoked for the second half of the trip!!!
Michi Wohlleben befreit 'Parzival' (8b, 150m) im Alpstein
Am 21. Mai 2017 hat Michi Wohlleben Parzival (8b, 6SL) im Appenzellerland frei klettern können. Bei perfekten Bedingungen kletterte er an diesem Tag die sechs Seillängen auf Anhieb rotpunkt. Michi hatte die Route an der Westlichen Dreifaltigkeit im Alpsteingebirge (Säntismassiv) erstmals im Herbst 2016 ausgecheckt und schon im vergangenen Winter und Frühjahr einige Versuche gemacht. Die 2008 von Markus Hutter und Fabio Lupo erstbegangene Route schlängelt sich durch einen beeindruckend kompakten Plattenpanzer, der von einem großen Dachriegel unterbrochen wird. Michis Bewertungsvorschlag für die 6 Seillängen: 7a+/7b, 7b+, 7c+, 8b, 7c, 7a+
Mike Foley: Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish, Kanada
Mike Foley: Totally floored by all the amazing responses I've been getting! Thank you for the support!
Dave Graham: The Speed of Sound (Fb 8B+)
Kevin Takahashi Smith: Dave Graham is perhaps the only climber in the world masterful enough to simultaneously climb 8B+, pull a mean duckface, AND flip you the bird.
Alex Puccio Bear Toss V13
thecircuitclimbing@alex_puccio89 turned 28 a couple of days ago. Yesterday (after a great party with a whole lot of cake the night before) she headed up to RMNP and sent Bear Toss V13. Not a bad way to burn those celebration calories!
Daila Ojeda klettert 'Digital Crack' (8a), Aiguille du Midi
Bernardo Gimenez:Congrats Daila Ojeda for sending the classic Digital Crack at Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix-Mont Blanc. France.
Alex Khazanov: 'Monkey Wedding' (Fb 8c)
Alex Khazanov: Monkey wedding (8C/V15) !!! I am truly happy, overwhelmed and humbled to send this boulder, further more in only 3 days of work.
My first 8C, Israel's first 8C. A dream came true. I am truly happy.
Daniel Woods: 'Monkey Wedding'
Den Boulder Monkey Wedding konnten diese Saison mehrere Kletterer abhaken. Doch die vielleicht eindrucksvollste Begehung kommt vom Barfußkletterer Charles Albert a.k.a. Mowgli...
Charles Albert: 'Monkey Wedding' (Fb 8C) barfuß
Alex Puccio: 'Freshly Squeezed' (V12)
Alex Puccio: A few days ago we hiked up to Lower in RMNP and the conditions were pretty good. I was able to make a send of this BEAUTIFUL line Freshly Squeezed (V12/8A+). This boulder is notorious for being hard. It's so steep that it's almost a roof and the feet are kind of small. The second move was actually the hardest for me since i was unable to keep the foot on for the bump move so I had to make it into a jump. Another classic off the list!!!!
Last: Why to wear a helmet by Jorg Verhoeven
Jorg Verhoeven: Well boys and girls, this is why you have to wear a helmet while trad climbing... I decided to not be scared this time and place my foot behind the rope, unfortunately the other foot decided to slip in the right moment for me to tumble down the wall headfirst. I guess this is the time to thank @petzl_official for making great helmets, so I only walked away with a a freaked out belayer (@katha_saurwein)/photographer (@jonglassberg) and a stiff neck. Sometimes you have to admit failure.
Perfect preparation though for the worldcup in Vail this friday!