Highlights: Fb 8B+ Flash, neue Routen, weitere Top-News
Hier gibt's den Überblick über die Highlights der Kletter-Meldungen: Fb 8B+ im Flash, neue Routen und weitere Top-News.
Vom Boulder bis zur alpinen Erstbegehung, hier gibt's die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen.
Ned Feehally: Trust Issues (V14) Flash
Der Brite Ned Feehally ist einer der Köpfe hinter den Beastmaker-Boards und Partner von Shauna Coxsey. Das erklärt vielleicht, wie jemand so stark werden kann, um V14 oder Fb 8B+ im Flash zu klettern. Das hatten vorher schon Daniel Woods mit Entlinge, Adam Ondra mit Gecko Assis sowie Jade und Jimmy Webb mit The Globalist geschafft.
Ned Feehally: Trust Issues - Rocklands
It's not very often you find a problem that suits you so well - heel hooks and huge lock offs on sloping holds. It's a total stunner of a line too.
A while ago I set myself the challenge to flash 8B. A few times I've been painfully close, but always managed to drop the ball when success seemed all but inevitable. While I still haven't flashed an 8B, I did flash this 8B+ instead... Thanks Alexander Megos and Dave Graham for the cheerleading and beta. And of course Nalle Hukkataival for putting this amazing line up! Photo: Shauna Coxsey
...und noch einmal, weil's so hardcore ist:
... außerdem konnte Ned noch Amandla (Fb 8B+) klettern.
Ned Feehally: Amandla - Rocklands
This has to be one of the most classic hard problems in the world. It has some really tiny holds. So tiny that I thought I'd never be able to hold them. Sometimes it's nice to be wrong.
Shauna Coxsey flasht 'Mask Off' (Fb 8A)
Shauna Coxsey: A painfully crimpy face. But it sure is pretty!
Jimmy Webb the second to have 'Trust Issues'
Die zweite Begehung für Nalles Trust Issues konnte der US-Boulderer Jimmy Webb einsacken.
Jimmy Webb: First day up in a newly discovered zone yesterday called The Realm. Nalle Hukkataival stumbled across this place early this season and gave us the good ole tour! Pretty stoked about what I saw there and even more stoked to swoop the 2nd ascent of Nalle's new 8B+ Trust Issues . Always crazy to me the potential in this seemingly endless land of rocks! Cheers Kevin Takashi Smith for the dope photo and all the homies for the spot!
Jimmy Webb: Erstbegehung von 'Yakuza' (Fb 8A+)
Jimmy Webb: Only one more day here in Rocklands and I'm already dreaming of the potential for next season.. Here's a nice Photo from Hannah of me climbing the first ascent of Yakuza (Fb 8A) in the midst of our 2 weeks of exploration. Plenty to do round these parts and as always I'm sad to be leaving..
Nalle Hukkataival: Monkey Style, Erstbegehung
Kevin Takahashi Smith: Nalle Hukkataival putting up Monkey Style, yet another chossy lowball out at The Realm. Such a shame there's no more good rock left in the Cederberg...
Alex Khazanov: The Speed of Sound (Fb 8B+)
The video of Speed of sound (8B+)
Perhaps it's the proudest hard line I have ever done. Amazing rcok and amazing movement. Can't get much better than this.
It seems that the days here here in rocklands are just flying. Its already halfway to our trip and I haven't even seen some of the boulders I want to do. But we have almost three weeks left, and its plenty of time to climb some more amazing lines. The temps are dropping this week and the psyche is high!
Hansjörg Auer eröffnet 'June Afternoon' (8b+, 5SL)
Hansjörg Auer: Freed my old multipitch project in Ötztal a few days ago calling it June Afternoon.
This five pitches long sportclimb (8b/+, 5a, 7c, 7a, 8a) located on the right side of the Nösslachwand offers some great climbing with an incredible last pitch.
Thanks to everyone who was up there on the belay ledges this and over the last years, when I was trying the line occasionally.
Also high five to my longtime buddy Thomi. Together we've explored this piece of rock nine years ago during our crazy time on and off the walls.
Giuliano Cameroni 'Off the Wagon' (Fb 8C)
Der Tessiner Giuliano Cameroni gehört zu den absoluten Topboulderern. Mit seiner Begehung von Off the Wagon (Fb 8B+) im Valle Bavona hat ein weiteres Testpiece abhaken können.
Giuliano Cameroni: Samuel Ometz just made a little video about Bavona, have a look! This one is Off the wagon.
In relativer Nähe zu Nalle Hukkataivals Off the Wagon konnte Giuliano dann noch eine eigene Linie eröffnen: Einen Highball der Extraklasse.
Giuliano Cameroni: Grande gigante gentile aka GGG (Fb 8A)
My proudest First Ascent and all in all the best problem I have ever done. It's a huge 12 meters vertical dihedral that stands in the middle of 'the wagon playground'. It climbs on perfect Bavona-rock and has world class palm moves plus technical body positions all the way to the top.
Diego Cameroni: 'Kingda Ka' (Fb 8B)
Vielleicht liegt es an den Genen? Der Vater von Giuliano und Diego ist Claudio Cameroni, der maßgeblich die Boulder im Tessin mit erschlossen hat und auch Autor der ersten Topoführer für die Bouldergebiete war. Da ist es vielleicht kein Wunder, dass auch Diego hart bouldern kann.
Giuliano Cameroni: Super proud of my brother Diego for making the second ascent of Kingda Ka my first 8A+ back in 2010!
Alexander Megos: The Finnish Line
Alex Megos: What a battle! Sometimes things just take a while but when they happen it's even more rewarding! After 5 days of work I did the first repeat of The Finnish Line put up by Nalle Hukkataival a few weeks ago! Maybe the best line of all time?!
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: The Pursuit of Happiness (Fb 8B)
Mason Earle: 'Cobra Crack' (5.14b)
Mason Earle: I sent Cobra Crack today. I've given a lot to this route over the years, and it felt good to cruise up it this afternoon. First tried this thing 7 or 8 years ago, psyched, but physically unfit for the challenge. I've learned a lot since those first tries, and it's cool to see how I've progressed. More on this story later, time for some drinks :-)
Daniel Woods: 'Stocking Stuffer' (9a)
Daniel Woods: Climbing out of a hole in Rifle.
The past few weeks I have been bouldering in the park during the week and hitting up Rifle on the weekends. Alternating between the two disciplines has been fun and a good balance of overall fitness and psyche. Maintaining power has allowed route cruxes to feel easier and endurance prolongs the boulder session. After doing Fat Camp, I went on to onsight my first 8b+ at Wizard's gate called Black Magic put up by Jonathan Siegrist, made the 3rd ascent of Stocking Stuffer (9a) by Matty Hong and Jon Cardwell in Rifle, and sent The Colinator (8b+) (pictured here) yesterday in nuclear heat. James Lucas I guess decided to take some shots while belaying as I was fighting the heat... Next on the list is Shadowboxing (9a).
Lara Neumeier: 'New Age' (8a+, 5SL)
Lara Neumeier: Yay yay!!
Roland Hemetzberger and I did the Beat Kammerlander classic New Age (8a+) in Rätikon two days ago! We really enjoyed these five awesome pitches!
For me it was the first hard multipitch and it surprisingly went down on the first day! I'm not really used to alpine climbing---considering that I never before lead on an alpine climb and my last multipitch experience lies three years back...